Read through the thread here and RCG, many have had to reverse channels.
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I have. I'm going on record that what can and cannot be reversed needs to be documented and a diagnostic mode on the gyro to clearly confirm gyro is moving as it shouldOriginally posted by Evan D View PostComment
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Gotcha. I think that may be a good request all around for FW and FL as they don't put much in any of their instruction manuals about radio connection and set up.
That said I've never needed it either. I have seen quite a few that could use the help though, many have shown up at my field and asked me or others to hook up and program their planes. They usually don't know how to balance their plane or do a range check either...
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The Shipping Container is great. For some it may be awkward to transport to/from car to field or home.
I grabbed some handle sets, and some nylon webbing strap sets for an Easier Secure/Tote setup. And in case a rubber band decides to quit or hide on me at the field.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Attached FilesComment
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So this thread is only for fanbois and sycophants, right?Originally posted by Jdcrow View Post
He brings up a very valid point. Why do you want to censor it?Comment
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Gilatrout- The elevator function of the gyro is programmed to be minimal…if at all. So others have stated in this thread.
I noticed the main tires making a slight impression in the foam of the wheel wells.
Hopefully, I plan on flying this a lot. May be overkill, but that foam is thin and warrants protection.
I split the front carbon because the front is not flat like the back is.
Thin Carbon added as shown in the photo.
-GG
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I agree, normally, this is true. This plane is a little different with the gyro. If I were setting it up myself I'd not need this documentation.Originally posted by Evan D View PostGotcha. I think that may be a good request all around for FW and FL as they don't put much in any of their instruction manuals about radio connection and set up.
That said I've never needed it either. I have seen quite a few that could use the help though, many have shown up at my field and asked me or others to hook up and program their planes. They usually don't know how to balance their plane or do a range check either...
LOL about range checking. Earlier this week, I had to explain to an old.time pilot to put the radio in low power mode first. He'd spent years going to the range test screen and "testing" his modelsComment
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Oh yeah! Same here, At just about every meeting I tell people to set up a throttle kill and range check your planes even if they have done it before and I always have people that don't know how, or are like your person do it wrong. That why I always asks how many paces they get before the plane stops working. If they say it never stops I know they are doing it wrong.
BTW, on this the gyro the gyro is fairly standard, all the mix is done in the control box.
Originally posted by Gilatrout View PostComment
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I just noticed while looking at some photos of the real B-2s, that their main gear angles down in front like a 767, versus the Freewing that angles up in front, like a 747 has. I'm sure they had a good reason for doing that, just noticed that. This is not meant as any criticism of the model, just an observation. I have just put mine together and have done most of the ground testing before a maiden is attempted whenever the weather gets better. Due to have some snow this upcoming week.
I am delighted with this airplane so far, and really look forward to flying it often. I've flown several EDF jets, but never a flying wing like this one. It's been a good education.
Well Done, MRC!!
davegeeComment
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YES..I'm not sure why this hasn't been mentioned yet. Jeremy's video is great...however he fails to mention that he's already adjusted the endpoints (D/R) BEFORE he started filming...that's why his clams don't close all the way at the beginning. Mine close all the way at 100% travel...however they're 70mm apart at center. (out of the box)
Jeremy's video works only if you happen to already know the correct endpoint...that's why it's magically close to 45mm total when he's done.
I feel the better way to to adjust the pushrods to 22.5mm from center when rudder is at center...and simply adjust endpoints or D/R so they just close at full rudder.
Folks watching that video who don't happen to catch that he mentions he's at 60% D/R...they're never going to get it right.
Originally posted by GliderGuy View PostComment
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FINALLY! Special thanks to James the Administrator, Evan D, GliderGuy, and especially to Jeremy and his awesome son for the instructional setup video! Thanks to all of you I finally figured out how to get both of our B-2’s programmed with the correct amount of throw and proper full deflection closure on the drag rudders. Woo-hoo!!
It still wasn’t exactly easy, but I got it figured out. To anyone else having issues getting those set properly, I found that the secret is setting your rudder travel adjustment down FIRST. On one radio (my DX9) I set the overall rudder travel to 70 and on my friend’s radio (a JR 12X) I ended up at 65%. From there it was, as Jeremy said, “a cat-and-mouse” game of back-and-forth with the control rods until the recommended magical numbers were obtained. Whew! I’ll be able to sleep tonight. 😂
Thanks again!Comment
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I was curious how everyone's CG turns out and where you position the battery to make it on the CG line inscribed on the bottom of the wing. I was using an old Admiral 6S as a testbed for figuring out where it should be placed to get the book CG. I found that if I put the battery all the way forward, right up to the bulkhead behind the pilots, it seems to balance out right on the money.Comment
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Fantastic! Glad everyone’s tips worked.Originally posted by Mud Duck View Post
Now for those of you who decide to set up the dual rate…..mentioned above…
DON’T set the D/R for the RUDDER. It will screw up your hard work on alignment as you change rates.
USE D/R ONLY on the elevator and aileron. Leave the rudder at 100% D/R (no rate impact in other words).
-GGComment
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I posted earlier about why I thought the wheels are angled the way they are and Alpha posted afterwards that I wasn't far off the mark. It has to do with simplicity, packaging and the no need for another servo or spring loaded arm on each side.Originally posted by davegee View PostComment
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Not so sure about that. The plane is slick and the drag brakes can act as air brakes if opened wider. Why not?
Originally posted by GliderGuy View PostComment
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Now we've dialed down our steering. Is 60% travel ok for enough steering? Anyone try running the nose wheel steering servo on a separate channel?
BTW, 60% for rudder worked pretty good on a JETI.
Originally posted by Mud Duck View PostComment
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Since weather hasn’t exactly been cooperating this weekend (gusting 25+ mph) I decided to get started on modding the nose gear position to be closer to the scale location. While this certainly isn’t a required (or even advised) mod, I wanted to try it anyway. I reinforced the area above the nose gear with a 1/4” plywood plate and was able to move the plastic gear mount forward. I’ll also be planning on adding a servo to the nose door to close it once the gear are deployed. Foam filler is still drying, but the overall look is there. Will also be painting the inside of the bays, struts, and doors flat white.Comment
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Because setting up the dual rate on the RUDDER screws up all the alignments that take a lot of fiddling to get close to right.Originally posted by Evan D View Post
My recommendation is ONLY set the dual rate discussed above and in Jeremy’s video on the aileron and elevator. Leave the rudder at 100% (i. e., no D/R). Don’t believe me….go try it. It totally messed up my alignments. Of course, going back to 100% for the rudder ch got the alignments back right. It’s a tricky piece of interacting machinery.
-GGComment
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