Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Jdcrow]

Now we've dialed down our steering. Is 60% travel ok for enough steering? Anyone try running the nose wheel steering servo on a separate channel?

BTW, 60% for rudder worked pretty good on a JETI.

use a spare channel and split the nose wheel steering off on its own ( I unplugged from the rudder board and plugged into channel 7 on my receiver). then the standard rudder trim tab only affects the drag rudders.

On my Jeti DS-12, I use the trim knob 8 to control nose steering trim. I have the rudder stick control the nose channel. On Jeti, setup a logical switch for landing gear switch and nose steering channel, so the nose steering is deactivated when gear is stowed. I use the dual rate and expo setup on channel 7 to independently set the nose wheel values, and not impact rudders. Have done this on almost all my aircraft.

***** update - i found the video that will help - better way to setup the nose wheel to not move when stowed with rudder stick *****
Set dual rate switch for steering on your retract switch. When gear is down, steering will be set to 100% rate, and 100% expo. When landing gear switch is in gear stowed position, set Steering rate to 0% and dual rate 0%. Then steering will not move when gear is stowed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unQAk8DyTIQ

[Evan D]

Yes, it would require some more work to do. Probably need to separate the two servos and do it electronically though offseting the servo arms to get more throw open than closed may help (mechanical differential).

Can't try it. Not planning on buy a B-2, too rich for me. But I'm sure someone will try it at some point.

Because setting up the dual rate on the RUDDER screws up all the alignments that take a lot of fiddling to get close to right.

My recommendation is ONLY set the dual rate discussed above and in Jeremy’s video on the aileron and elevator. Leave the rudder at 100% (i. e., no D/R). Don’t believe me….go try it. It totally messed up my alignments. Of course, going back to 100% for the rudder ch got the alignments back right. It’s a tricky piece of interacting machinery.

-GG

[xviper]

Could the drag rudders be set up on a high rate (on one switch position) beyond 100% (say to the max the TX will allow) so that when the switch is thrown to that high rate, both drag rudders open very wide to act as airbrakes on the ground? I would like to install the Assan steering gyro so ground steering when its moving fast should receive minimal rudder stick input, if at all, until the plane slows down enough for turning around. Would such a high rate on one switch position affect the rudders function when on the regular 100% rate? I guess my question would be...................... Could an extra high rate open up the rudders more when in the "neutral" position without affecting their condition on "normal" rate?

[Evan D]

No… because to open one would be max one direction in your radio and then to open the other max the other… Can’t do max in the middle to get both full open. You’d need each on their own channel. It would be cool though.

[xviper]

No… because to open one would be max one direction in your radio and then to open the other max the other… Can’t do max in the middle to get both full open. You’d need each on their own channel. It would be cool though.

Too bad. I hope to get mine in a couple of weeks (shipping pending). I'll play with it (carefully) and pray I don't bugger something up.

[davegee]

I am now a little confused, just want to be sure I have the correct settings for the elevator position prior to maiden. I watched Jeremy's video yesterday about moving the elevator up 8mm from neutral, which I did. I did see in the updated manual online just now there are some things on the drag brakes now updated, but in important flight notes, it still talks about setting the elevators up 2-3mm before the first flight. Does Jeremy's video supersede this updated online manual?

Thanks for any clarification on this.

davegee

[xviper]

I am now a little confused, just want to be sure I have the correct settings for the elevator position prior to maiden. I watched Jeremy's video yesterday about moving the elevator up 8mm from neutral, which I did. I did see in the updated manual online just now there are some things on the drag brakes now updated, but in important flight notes, it still talks about setting the elevators up 2-3mm before the first flight. Does Jeremy's video supersede this updated online manual?

Thanks for any clarification on this.

davegee

I asked about this back in post #357 and nobody commented on it. Jeremy also did 4mm on the outer control surface, not just the 8mm on the inner ones. I was wondering if this was because he had a nose heavy condition but with no comment, I can only guess that he went by the book. 8 and 4 seems like a big departure from the book.

[Flying Dutchman]

I asked about this back in post #357 and nobody commented on it. Jeremy also did 4mm on the outer control surface, not just the 8mm on the inner ones. I was wondering if this was because he had a nose heavy condition but with no comment, I can only guess that he went by the book. 8 and 4 seems like a big departure from the book.

In the comments on his video, Jeremy states upon this: ‘This is my setup. You need less if you use lighter batteries. Also rather be nose up more than less nose down IMO.

So I will be taking his advise, because I am planning to use the Admiral 6000’s.

[davegee]

I asked about this back in post #357 and nobody commented on it. Jeremy also did 4mm on the outer control surface, not just the 8mm on the inner ones. I was wondering if this was because he had a nose heavy condition but with no comment, I can only guess that he went by the book. 8 and 4 seems like a big departure from the book.

Thanks, X Viper. I think I'll see if I can get some more definition to the revised 8 and 4mm setup numbers on the elevators and ailerons. I'm guessing Jeremy flew with these settings at least a few times to bring that comment and video up from him. I'll report back if I get some more info corroborating his trim settings.

Edit: I just chatted online with Derek at MRC tech support help desk regarding the questions on setting up the elevators/ailerons. Jeremy recommends 8mm elevators up and 4mm ailerons up versus the manual that says 2-3 mm up on elevators only. He said that they won't reprint the manual, due to costs, but will update the online manual on the website. I don't think they're going to clarify this to my satisfaction, anyway to have all info consistent between various sources (online vs. printed manuals). I think I'll just do the maiden with Jeremy's recommendations in place; if too much can always trim it out in flight on the maiden.

[AdrenalizedRC]

Hi all. Can somebody kindly share the dimensions including the thickness for the clear vertical stabilizer? Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[GliderGuy]

Davegee, I also plan to use the Admiral 6000 AND the 4 / 8 mm setup. After all, Jeremy has flown it, and I haven’t.

Seems like a reasonable course of action.

-GG

[xviper]

I've got ChinaHobbyLine 5000s and 6000s (>1000g) that I'd like to use in this plane. These batteries are fairly heavy. I also have light 5000s (725g) that could be used. Given that, I'll see how the thing balances with the batteries I have and decide from there. Undoubtedly, a heavy battery that goes as far back as possible in the tray and is still nose heavy, will require more reflex. I don't remember in any of Jeremy's videos, if he showed the placement of his battery.

[Evan D]

Look at 4:43 in his video after he lands and turns the plane away from the camera… I don’t see any up elevator or ailerons… I can understand heavier batteries may need some.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wIH9YQYHvE8

[Gilatrout]

*sigh*

I just spent the better part of an hour with the plane upside down working on the port rudder. I get it all set up. 22.5mm on each side when closed it all lines up with the wingtip. Everything this is great...

I turned the plane right side up and tested the rudder again. What was perfectly aligned when upside down is off by nearly 10mm down.

All that work and the gyro was in the wrong mode.

When setting up the rudders make sure the gyro is in solid red mode.

But that wasn't the only causing the problem. Taking the push rod on and off and on and off and on and off again loosened the linkage on the servo horn and a certain amount of slop had developed.

The ball link doesn't look like it has locktite on it and had just barely worked loose and enough slop was there to throw the rudders off significantly.

I recommend removing the servos and using locktite to secure the ball link. A little slop there translated into what might be possible to lose the aircraft.

[xviper]

Look at 4:43 in his video after he lands and turns the plane away from the camera… I don’t see any up elevator or ailerons… I can understand heavier batteries may need some.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wIH9YQYHvE8

In that video, it's really hard to see that he has any reflex at all. At the timed mark, they almost look even. Then in this video, at ~3:20, when he turns the plane upside down, it can be seen that there is some reflex and the difference in the amount between the inners and outers can be seen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_Pc5XsNWgU

Perhaps when he uses different weights of batteries, he makes small trim changes during flight.

[Evan D]

That’s a setup video, pre flying… the one I mentioned is after flying and trimming….

[GliderGuy]

Caution Gilatrout….

Maybe use Foam Tac? Some locktight compounds eat plastic as if it was candy!

Good idea, though. I will check and better secure mine.

-GG

[Gravythe clown]

Great job an this plane, took me 30-45 minutes to get it all set up. What I did that made it easier for me was insert the wings but let them sit vertically with the rudders in the up side. So the wing rod was in but the the screw terminals were 90 devs off.
I almost thought I was done as son as I started. I only plugged the left wing in and besides lowering the rates it was perfect. 45 at rest no flush with wing tips when fully closed. My first thoughts was easiest plane ever to set up. But then I plugged the other wing in. Lol.
so started it just the bottom surfaces got it to 20 off center of wing tip at rest. The using pot instead of stick drive closed. At this point I used endpoints to dial in the closed position flush with wing tip. Next adjust and connect top surface got it lined up flush with bottom surface while servo still driven closed.
stroke with rot pot all good left.
same thing right, only difference was I adjusted my othe side servo end points. Worked great. Only issues I had was when I put the wings in correctly both left and right sagged a bit giving wash in. This didn’t show up while I was setting up. Easy fix. Half twist in correct direction for each rod. Done.
set up the 8mm and 4mm, I’m using 6000 HRB. So I can trim down if needed. Will correct if needed after maiden.
Only real issue I have is trying to hold it to CG. 🥜

can’t wait to fly her.

Gravy

[Soonerflyer]

Great Job Motion and Alpha….. I have been waiting for this airframe to come to our RC world. Ordered mine yesterday and I can’t wait to get it. Being and AF vet I love watching the B-2 fly over, now I have my own.

[Gravythe clown]

Question on the E52 in the B2.
I see I can add spare Chanel (Chanel 8) in my case to the gain input pin on the Ail2/elv2/gain pin set. In the manual under Gain Settings it talks about using it in flight to adjust and set. This what I’m use to.
questions are:
1 is this function active since this is preprogrammed unit for the B2?
2 they recommend 40%-50% starting point, is this where it’s preset at currently, if not what is it preset at?
3 is the 0%-100% range based off a 1000us - 2000us output signal?

I’d like to able to adjust the gain like my other FC’s just in case it becomes over active.

Thanks
Gravy