Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[crxmanpat]

Same, had to reverse the servos in my radio first, then switched the two elevator leads and all worked fine after that.

[crxmanpat]

Regarding the alignment of the drag rudders when closed. It was stated on the Live show yesterday that when closed, the drag rudders should be even with the trailing edge of the WING TIP, not both sides. If they are even with the wing tip and 45mm when open, all is good.

[xviper]

Got my B-2 yesterday and put it together all trimmed out. I want to put it in the foam box to safely take the plane to the field but I can't figure out how to collapse the rudders (close drag rudders) so they will fit in the box. Anyone know how to do it without removing the 4 screws and panel to move the servo? Thanks!

On most servos, once they are not powered, the servo arm can be gently moved. Have you tried (with no battery connected) to gently squeeze the clam shell together over where each one is connected?

[Mud Duck]

We’ve got ours ready for their maiden flights but we will be waiting on wind and weather for at least a week. 😩

[Jdcrow]

I just noticed the glue on whale tail sticks out of the shipping package when attached.

Instead of glueing mine on, I'm going to add a couple of sleeves and rods and magnets hold it in place during flight.

Gorgeous model.

i used some of the foam packaging material I kept from other items, and attached over the exposed area with foamtac

Some of my buddies are going to use magnets to attach theirs

[xviper]

After all that went into the design of the box, I can just see the talk in the box design room when they put the plane into it ..................................
Designer no.1 ----- Oh crap, it's a couple inches too short to completely enclose the tip of the tail. Now what do we do? It'll set us back weeks, maybe months to make a new box.
Designer no.2 ----- Let's see if the plane design team will just chop off a bit of the tail end and call it a "duck tail". It sounds cute and nobody will be the wiser.
Team leader ------- Done! Let's do it.



Oh, let's hire a new set of box designers. The old ones can go to janitorial.

[Bobdbc]

Received my B2 yesterday. Does the gyro connection go to my receiver port assigned to a multi position switch? Thanks for the help.

[Gilatrout]

For those that want to have a removable whale tail.

Pin and socket plus holders for 6x3mm magnets. Inserts are all 7mm outer diameter. Print at 100% infill. Enable thin wall detection if necessary.


Whale Tail Pins.stl

[davegee]

Ugh, just noticed. Gear door stickers are upside down for tail code.

That is so annoying.




#edit

Looks like the decal sheet is also printed wrong. The scale monkey on my back is scowling.

I just noticed that one of my wheel door decals is off, as you mentioned with the "WM" being upside down. The other side is ok. Do you or anyone know how to take off that decal (looks like a waterslide to me) without damaging the paint on the gear door? I might have Callie reprint it with "Spirit of Missouri" on each side.

Davegee

[Jdcrow]

Reflex Setting -

Since both surfaces (ail and ele) respond to Elevator input, are we to reflex just the Elevator? or both Elevator and Aileron surfaces?

[Evan D]

Clear to me just the elevators

[Jdcrow]

Clear to me just the elevators

thats how i reflexed mine. just elevator surfaces. Seen images that appear to show both were done, and had someone say its both. I'll let James or Justin confirm

[davegee]

Davegee, same with mine. I switch plugs per manual but didn't work so I put them back. I reversed them in the transmitter and all worked properly.

Thanks, Bill6693. Since the gyro is giving proper inputs to the flight controls, I've got to think there is nothing wrong with what we did reversing those servos in our radios. As far as I can tell, mine will be ready to go next week, or so, after the next spring snowstorm comes and goes!

Good luck with yours!

Davegee

[Gilatrout]

I just noticed that one of my wheel door decals is off, as you mentioned with the "WM" being upside down. The other side is ok. Do you or anyone know how to take off that decal (looks like a waterslide to me) without damaging the paint on the gear door? I might have Callie reprint it with "Spirit of Missouri" on each side.

Davegee

I haven't tried anything. The good news it is on the plastic door, not foam so that gives some options.

worst case is removing door and sanding and repainting. Any slight mismatch wont be noticed under the plane and in shadow.

The tail code is part of the larger decal. Before going the extreme route of sanding and repaint, I would try a decal solvent such as MicroSol. It still might be easiest to remove the door first so you can easily soak the decal.

Since you are pretty much replacing the markings on both doors, I would start with the remove the parts and soak them.

I don't know exactly how I'm going to fix it yet.

I expect some sort of replacement decals to fix this, same way the T33 was fixed years ago. Maybe Motion will address this in a different way? In the meantime I have a support ticket in on the issue.

[davegee]

I haven't tried anything. The good news it is on the plastic door, not foam so that gives some options.

worst case is removing door and sanding and repainting. Any slight mismatch wont be noticed under the plane and in shadow.

The tail code is part of the larger decal. Before going the extreme route of sanding and repaint, I would try a decal solvent such as MicroSol. It still might be easiest to remove the door first so you can easily soak the decal.

Since you are pretty much replacing the markings on both doors, I would start with the remove the parts and soak them.

I don't know exactly how I'm going to fix it yet.

I expect some sort of replacement decals to fix this, same way the T33 was fixed years ago. Maybe Motion will address this in a different way? In the meantime I have a support ticket in on the issue.

Hi Gilatrout: I concur with your findings. I always buy a can of touchup paint matched to a sample of the plane. I'll probably take a wingtip to Ace Hardware next week and get that done.
I read someone, not sure if that was you or not, was going to have Callie make new gear door decals with a "Spirit of MIssouri" instead of "Spirit of America" as well as the corrected "WM" decal on it. I was born near Whiteman AFB and my dad flew B-47s with SAC back in the 1950s out of Whiteman, so I though that would be appropriate to do.

Worst case, the decals can be gently sanded off if Microsol or some other soft remover doesn't work. Easy to spray a new matching color with an airbrush; nobody would ever know.

Let me know if Microsol works for you. I might have a little left, but if not, if you have luck removing the decal with it, I'll order some.

Cheers

davegee

[Jdcrow]

Reflex Setting -

Since both surfaces (ail and ele) respond to Elevator input, are we to reflex just the Elevator? or both Elevator and Aileron surfaces?

I found a post by Jeremy about setting the reflex.

Per Jeremy's post "You may need to pause the video but you can see where the neutral spots should be close to for successful flight. Measuring from the triangle piece between the elevators and ailerons You want innermost elevators up about 8mm, ailerons up about 4mm and drag rudders 45mm"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/motionrcfanmedia/posts/1171939710287608/?comment_id=1171951336953112

[xviper]

I found a post by Jeremy about setting the reflex.

Per Jeremy's post "You may need to pause the video but you can see where the neutral spots should be close to for successful flight. Measuring from the triangle piece between the elevators and ailerons You want innermost elevators up about 8mm, ailerons up about 4mm and drag rudders 45mm"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/motionrcfanmedia/posts/1171939710287608/?comment_id=1171951336953112

Hmmm ................... That's 8mm on the inners and 4mm on the outers. That's quite a bit more than the book's 2-3mm on just the inners. Did he say anything about if he went by the book CG? 8 & 4mm would seem to suggest that his model was more forward CG, but ................................

Then I go back to that private video of the fellow who flew his out of a parking lot and bounced like crazy taking off. My first thought was that model's reflex was insufficient. I hope people will comment on this as more people fly this plane.

[MeyerVW]

You can see it in the videos. All 4 surfaces have some reflex to them, except rudders.

[Radar-Guy]

Ugh, just noticed. Gear door stickers are upside down for tail code.

That is so annoying.




#edit

Looks like the decal sheet is also printed wrong. The scale monkey on my back is scowling.

It's not so hard to create your own replacements (quick one blw) and print these on decal paper.

After looking at many photos of the real thing these marking on the main gear doors are in italics. Has that been changed recently?

[Mud Duck]

OK, time to kill off the frustration and seek for further assistance…

I never want to hear the words “drag rudders” again on any other airplane I ever buy. 😳 What a nightmare to try to get correct on this one. I’ve spent far too much time trying to get mine mechanically correct at the latest recommended positions, as follows;

If I hit the recommended neutral rudder position of 45mm (22.5 above/below wingtip centerline) then at full rudder deflection they close together about 3-4mm down below wingtip centerline and it happens equally on both sides.

When I adjust them for full rudder deflection to get them to close together perfectly even at wingtip centerline, then my control surface’s neutral rudder position ends up being 30-33mm above/below wingtip centerline at the neutral position (as I mentioned it’s supposed to be 22.5 above/below on each side).

I’m trying to decide which of the two options I should fly with. I’m leaning towards keeping the 22.5 at neutral because the plane will likely be flying much more at the neutral rudder position than it will be at the full rudder deflection position. I have tried moving both ends of the pushrods by 1/2 turns in every direction and it seems to me impossible to hit both marks by mechanically adjusting the servo arms.

I tried adjusting in the radio but with a single servo on each drag rudder (instead of separate left/right rudder channels or even dual servos; one for each top surface and one for each bottom surface, to be adjusted independently) the radio adjustments can fix one side but then screws up the other side.

So if you’re somehow using your radio to make the correction equally to both sides please help this dumb guy out and share your secret, because my radio (a Spektrum DX9) cannot adjust the center position of one without, of course, adjusting the other, while using only one channel for rudder instead of two channels (as it should be on this model in my opinion) but that will screw up the gyro configuration.
🤷🏻♂️
Which of the two options would you guys go with; neutral at the recommended 22.5 and not perfectly centered at full deflection OR the 32-33mm neutral position with full rudder deflection centered on the wingtip? TIA.