Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Evan D]

James has already said the 22.5 on either side is not that important, to get them to line up with the tip edge when closed.

[Gilatrout]

It's not so hard to create your own replacements (quick one blw) and print these on decal paper.

After looking at many photos of the real thing these marking on the main gear doors are in italics. Has that been changed recently?

unfortunately printers can't print white. There is white decal paper, but I've never had success with it. The decals printed on white paper don't stick.

[Mud Duck]

James has already said the 22.5 on either side is not that important, to get them to line up with the tip edge when closed.

I thought I’ve watched and read everything by now. I remember him or anyone saying that, however I have seen in places where the 22.5 is important.

so excuse my ignorance, but who is James? Is he the guy that hosted the live session? I’d sure rather hear e from Iberemy Solt or Alpha.

[Radar-Guy]

unfortunately printers can't print white. There is white decal paper, but I've never had success with it. The decals printed on white paper don't stick.

I‘ve experienced no problems with white decal paper so far. I‘ve also got a „ghost-white-toner“ cartridge for my HP laser printer. It‘s kind of a workaround but OK for me.
How about trying a very light grey?

[Gilatrout]

I‘ve experienced no problems with white decal paper so far. I‘ve also got a „ghost-white-toner“ cartridge for my HP laser printer. It‘s kind of a workaround but OK for me.
How about trying a very light grey?

I'd forgotten about that company selling white toner. I generally paint white markings and use clear decal paper, but for this? it would be a nightmare. Having a way to print white would be useful.

I may order some. I know it is $100s of dollars a cartridge, so it wouldn't be the solution for everyone.

[Evan D]

Yes, he is the marketing director at Motion RC and hosts the show.


Pretty sure Jeremy said it last friday too but then you should wait for his answer to your question and for future questions.

I thought I’ve watched and read everything by now. I remember him or anyone saying that, however I have seen in places where the 22.5 is important.

so excuse my ignorance, but who is James? Is he the guy that hosted the live session? I’d sure rather hear e from Iberemy Solt or Alpha.

[James]

I don't believe I ever said 22.5 isn't important, that's what we have in the manual as the neutral and what we mentioned more than once on the live overview.

Mud Duck - I get that it can be a bit of a pain to get right, but it is worth doing right and not that hard, just a bit tedious but if your saying your just 3-4mm away then that's like one more half turn on both linkages in the proper direction to be where you need to be.

Don't worry too much about where your elevons (ailerons and elevators) are in relation to the drag rudders because those will be trimmed and moving constantly by your input and the gyro during flight. Just get that drag rudder to be in line with the wingtip when closed. Not doing so would be the equivalent of say setting up a standard vertical rudder crooked.

[Evan D]

To be clear I was saying the 22.5 on either side was not as important as lining up the trailing edge. Which is what you just repeated again. But either way he want's to hear it from Jeremy or Alpha so I'll shut up. :)

[Mud Duck]

I don't believe I ever said 22.5 isn't important, that's what we have in the manual as the neutral and what we mentioned more than once on the live overview.

Don't worry too much about where your elevons (ailerons and elevators) are in relation to the drag rudders because those will be trimmed and moving constantly by your input and the gyro during flight. Just get that drag rudder to be in line with the wingtip when closed. Not doing so would be the equivalent of say setting up a standard vertical rudder crooked.

Ok, trust me, I have moved them a half turn in every way possible to hit the mark, it simply will not do it, but I greatly appreciate the feedback and I’ll go with the elevons centered at full deflection.
🙏👍

[Evan D]

Since the upper and lower are both coming off the same servo arm you may not get exactly 22.5mm for both when you get the TE's to line up. In MY opinion it doesn't matter if one is 24 and the other 21. Really doesn't matter if they open 47mm instead of 45 either but that another discussion...

Darn, posted again...

[Mud Duck]

Darn, posted again...

LOL Evan D! I appreciate your comments and that’s nearly verbatim what my friend said while I was setting it up; “In flight I highly doubt you’re going to notice that 3mm difference.” Which is completely accurate but I was going in the assumption that the 22.5 was more important than centered at full deflection. James has cleared that up perfectly for me

…so back to the drag rudder pushrods one more time… 😩😂

[Skosh25]

Well…I couldn’t resist. Not because I love the B-2 but because I like different and unique and this certainly qualifies. And the CARF B-2 is quite a bit out of my price range.

[James]

Jeremy to the rescue!

[kallend]

I see that HobbyEagle has just released the A3 Super 4 gyro, which sure seems very similar to the E52 in most respects.

https://www.hobbyeagle.com/products/a3s4/

"Sir, my first job was programming binary load lifters, very similar to your vaporators in most respects"

However, on re-reading the respective manuals, the A3S3 (version 2) looks more like the E52 except for the LED colors and direction the pins face.

[GliderGuy]

LOL Evan D! I appreciate your comments and that’s nearly verbatim what my friend said while I was setting it up; “In flight I highly doubt you’re going to notice that 3mm difference.” Which is completely accurate but I was going in the assumption that the 22.5 was more important than centered at full deflection. James has cleared that up perfectly for me

…so back to the drag rudder pushrods one more time… 😩😂

Don’t forget that adjusting your TX end point/travel helps zero in on the adjustments. I ended up at 80% to get the drag rudders close enough and symmetrical on both sides.

Now happy with closed aligned with the tips and a bit more upen/neutral at 48 mm and 24 mm each.

It does take some fiddling.

James/Jeremy…Thanks for the video post covering in detail how the E and A alignments work. Perfectly clear, now.

-GG

[Mud Duck]

Don’t forget that adjusting your TX end point/travel helps zero in on the adjustments. I ended up at 80% to get the drag rudders close enough and symmetrical on both sides.

Now happy with closed aligned with the tips and a bit more upen/neutral at 48 mm and 24 mm each.

It does take some fiddling.

-GG

I’ve done so much fiddling I feel like I’m in a bluegrass band! 🤠

Thanks for the transmitter tip, fairly sure I tried it and it didn’t change a thing, but I’ll visit it again. 🙏

[Naveda08]

I am wondering if Freewing will offer a software option to program the E52 like HobbyEagle does for the A3S3 or will I be forced to order the program card from RCC since its sold out at MRC

[Evan D]

I don't believe it was ever in stock. "out of stock" does not always mean sold out.

I'm sure they have them coming.

I am wondering if Freewing will offer a software option to program the E52 like HobbyEagle does for the A3S3 or will I be forced to order the program card from RCC since its sold out at MRC

[Naveda08]

I don't believe it was ever in stock. "out of stock" does not always mean sold out.

I'm sure they have them coming.

So forced to buy the program card is what you are saying without saying it? it be super convenient if they offered the software like HobbyEagle does, might just have to pull the E52 and throw in one of the A3S3s i got laying around.

[Flying Dutchman]

So forced to buy the program card is what you are saying without saying it? it be super convenient if they offered the software like HobbyEagle does, might just have to pull the E52 and throw in one of the A3S3s i got laying around.

No, you can use the stock gyro as-is.
Everything is pre-programmed. No need for the program card.

I am wondering why you would consider to pull out the stock gyro and replace it with one of your own.