Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Aros]

Congrats on the successful maiden! Yes I find the rates are a bit touchy especially for a maiden. I dialed mine down a bit and have 35% expo. I will reduce that to 25-30% soon. Definitely don't want to get too slow with her on final. Keep about 25-30% power with flaps, fly her to the ground with a nice flare at the end and all should go well, grass or pavement. Happy Landings!

[p51mustangman]

How much expo do you have dialed in?? I run the rates as stated in the manual. I'd recommend at least 30% expo to start and adjust to your liking.

I went into my radio and it was 100% still. like I said it was very touchy haha. Turned it down to 50% but may go further.

[Twowingtj]

I went into my radio and it was 100% still. like I said it was very touchy haha. Turned it down to 50% but may go further.

Rather than turning your throws that far down in the transmitter, I would suggest moving the pushrod in one hole on the servo arm. That way you could set the throw to around 80% in the transmitter and maintain good servo resolution in a more normal range of travel. It will also serve to lessen the load on the servo itself.

[Aros]

Crap. I was changing out my stock main struts for the upgrades...The port side went just fine but when I tried removing the grub screws from the starboard retract both striped. :Angry: :Angry:

I was able to get the stock strut off but predictably when I put the upgrade strut on, I can't get the old grub screws to catch to tighten so it swivels on the pin.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated! What's the remedy for stripped grub screws and if you tell me to buy a new retract you get coal in your stocking for xmas. LOL

[crxmanpat]

Heat them up first to loosen the Loctite (a soldering iron works good here). Hold the Allen key at an angle to get more bite. Or if you have a set of Torx or star head drivers, use one that is slightly larger than the grub screw opening.

[thisguy65]

Also you can use a Torx bit.

Most hardware I trash because I have a small machine shop and have alot of set screws here. Most of those set screws are just to darn soft.

[Aros]

Thanks guys...I don't have any Torx/star heads unfortunately...I will keep at it.

[Aros]

Well I've tried virtually everything I can think of including ideas from the Web. From heating to CA to a left-handed drill bit to a screw back-out bit thingy to dremeling a small cut to see if a flat head screwdriver can get it out. Nothing has worked. Now it's just a smooth hole that resembles nothing like a grub screw. So I did what I always do when all else fails. I epoxied the damn thing into place. At least I got one of the screws out and was able to screw in the replacement. Yes I know epoxy won't last but for now it's rock solid. How many takeoffs and landings until it's loose? Probably 5 or less. Oh well, it beats taking a hammer to the retract.

:Silly:

[thisguy65]

depending on epoxy brand and kind it should be good. going to say get a alien key you don't mind throwing away dip it in to epoxy and put the key in to the screw. before that put Vaseline on everything but the screw that way the epoxy will come off if you get it on something you didn't want to.

[p51mustangman]

Crap. I was changing out my stock main struts for the upgrades...The port side went just fine but when I tried removing the grub screws from the starboard retract both striped. :Angry: :Angry:

I was able to get the stock strut off but predictably when I put the upgrade strut on, I can't get the old grub screws to catch to tighten so it swivels on the pin.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated! What's the remedy for stripped grub screws and if you tell me to buy a new retract you get coal in your stocking for xmas. LOL

I just fixed mine from the hardlanding I had. Found out one side was stripped and not even tight on the Retract side. I took the oleo off, then took the rod out from the retract side as it was loose, turned it to the side that was not stripped and it seems to be rock solid for now...until the other side is bad lol.

[Aros]

depending on epoxy brand and kind it should be good. going to say get a alien key you don't mind throwing away dip it in to epoxy and put the key in to the screw. before that put Vaseline on everything but the screw that way the epoxy will come off if you get it on something you didn't want to.

It's the standard 5 min stuff from the LHS...Works for many things but doesn't usually hold for too long when it comes to struts. Might get a handful of flights without it cracking loose...It's a temporary fix for sure. Hopefully a new retract isn't in my near future. I don't want to deal with trying to replace the retract and re-route the wire appropriately over a stupid grub screw lol. If I could go back before it was seriously stripped the old allen key epoxy trick would have worked. Rats.

[bbolz]

I'd probably drill out the stripped and stuck set screw and tap the larger hole for a larger set screw. Also make sure there is a flat for it to seat against. Sounds easier than it is I guess.

[Aros]

I started drilling it out last night...I was thinking along those same lines...Drill deep enough and put some different type of screw in there. As long as it is deep seated and the head isn't sticking out it should work while keeping the unit from binding when retracting.

I hate those tiny grub screws, lol.

[crxmanpat]

Todd,

I highly recommend getting this driver set:

https://www.amazon.com/HUIJIAQI-NO-8...gateway&sr=8-1



I have been using this for over 3 years and it has been awesome.Has just about every small driver head you can imagine. In fact, I love mine so much I just ordered another one as some of the allen bits are a little rounded out.

[Aros]

Pat you read my mind. I was going to post asking for a quality set recommendation...My allen key is that little pocket knife looking thing...I hardly think that qualifies as quality. Thank you!

[bbolz]

Love that driver set. I'm going to get one. Also, just use a longer hardened set screw and grind the excess off flush or almost flush. Punch a dent in it with a set point so you could drill it out in the future if need be. And, use locktight.

[Aros]

Good advice, thanks!
Just checked the epoxied strut...Feels like it will take a sledgehammer to come loose but we all know all it will need is one or a couple less-than-perfect landings. All the more reason to focus on the approach and get those greasers in! :Cool:

[thisguy65]

For grass operations what the best landing gear set up?

Keeping the front gear and swapping to oleo upgrade rear

Keeping the mains and putting in a trail link

or just doing the spring mods and swamping them like Tirediron did?



Regarding the screws, the best thing you can do it go to Mcmaster Car and order you some screws. Since I"ve got a small machine shop I have a lot of these already and swap the screw out. Hate how soft they are.

[RCjetdude]

Keep the mains and swap to the upgrade TL nose strut.

[thisguy65]

Keep the mains and swap to the upgrade TL nose strut.

Thanks Steve. Do I need to switch sides and/or cut the spring like George did?