Hi guy, I just joined here last week and got my A-10 then as well. One thing I noticed with mine is that it has all water slide decals now instead of what is shown in the motionrc video where some are dry transfer. That means my cockpit window decal with the yellow stripe is also water transfer. Problem is once its applied the center portion covers the window and makes it opaque. Perhaps I'm just not understanding how to properly apply that decal, but is that how its supposed to look now? Seems weird to me to cover the window like that. The only solution I see is to remove the part over the window by scoring around it now that the thin yellow line is affixed to the window. The older dry transfer would have worked great since you would just peel the middle section off after the thin yellow line is affixed. Am I missing something or has Freewing made an error with this decal now by going to all water slides?
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Originally posted by rc_heli_flier View PostHi guy, I just joined here last week and got my A-10 then as well. One thing I noticed with mine is that it has all water slide decals now instead of what is shown in the motionrc video where some are dry transfer. That means my cockpit window decal with the yellow stripe is also water transfer. Problem is once its applied the center portion covers the window and makes it opaque. Perhaps I'm just not understanding how to properly apply that decal, but is that how its supposed to look now? Seems weird to me to cover the window like that. The only solution I see is to remove the part over the window by scoring around it now that the thin yellow line is affixed to the window. The older dry transfer would have worked great since you would just peel the middle section off after the thin yellow line is affixed. Am I missing something or has Freewing made an error with this decal now by going to all water slides?I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Originally posted by Elbee View Post
RHF, Firstly, "Welcome to Hobby Squawk", and secondly, no, you're not missing anything. As for the waterslide decal, I cut out the center area, before I applied the decal and used decal set to place it. One solution might be to cut it out in the center, though I would use 'yellow pin stripe' after removing all of it. Just a thought. As I remember, weren't there 2 different 'window decals'? Anyway, I have not really solved your issue, but glad you are here. Best, LB
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Flight of 6 RC Freewing A-10's at Deer Creek State Park Ohio RC flying site.BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super Viper
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Originally posted by Wobisch View Postprobably yes. would that be a problem for the gear mechanics?Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
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Good morning Folks,
I'm new to the forum and have a A10 90mm setup question that's been daunting for me to solve, any of your expert guidance is much appreciated.
I'm relatively new to EDF's, my Freewing A10 is my first EDF jet, and the aircraft is just great. I've been flying her on the stock 80mm setup with great success. Recently I've converted to the 90mm setup and having problems with the left hand motor.
My setup follows; Efflux fan units, custom 1450kv motors, Castle Edge 100amp ESC's with default setup (both with red internal BEC power lead disabled), external 20amp Castle BEC with default setup, batteries are Admiral 5000 mah, 50c 6S.
This setup bench ran just fine and had the default ESC calibration performed without incident. First flight was at reduced power getting a feel for weight & balance, flap deployment and landing approaches. All went according to plan. Second flight on takeoff I'm accelerating up to full throttle, break ground and encounter a sudden yaw indicating a loss of power, performance was dramatically affected but with the application of opposite rudder I'm able to limp it around the pattern and after 4 approaches decide it's time to commit. Landing was not the best and snapped the nose gear pin in the process. Once I'm back in the pits I perform individual run ups on the motors and note the left hand motor is cutting out at full power settings, right hand motor operates fine. Further inspection shows there is nothing obviously wrong with wiring or the ESC itself, motor visually appears fine. The one difference between the left and right power setups is the external Castle BEC is attached to the left hand motor and power setup. I can't imagine there is a significant battery load being placed on the battery from normal flight to disrupt normal full power motor operations, but who knows, perhaps this is the case. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem further? Am I making a mistake by running default setups on both the motor and external ESC's? Any other ideas?
Any and all help is much appreciated, thanks all!
TJ
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Originally posted by tjkav8tor View PostGood morning Folks,
I'm new to the forum and have a A10 90mm setup question that's been daunting for me to solve, any of your expert guidance is much appreciated.
I'm relatively new to EDF's, my Freewing A10 is my first EDF jet, and the aircraft is just great. I've been flying her on the stock 80mm setup with great success. Recently I've converted to the 90mm setup and having problems with the left hand motor.
My setup follows; Efflux fan units, custom 1450kv motors, Castle Edge 100amp ESC's with default setup (both with red internal BEC power lead disabled), external 20amp Castle BEC with default setup, batteries are Admiral 5000 mah, 50c 6S.
This setup bench ran just fine and had the default ESC calibration performed without incident. First flight was at reduced power getting a feel for weight & balance, flap deployment and landing approaches. All went according to plan. Second flight on takeoff I'm accelerating up to full throttle, break ground and encounter a sudden yaw indicating a loss of power, performance was dramatically affected but with the application of opposite rudder I'm able to limp it around the pattern and after 4 approaches decide it's time to commit. Landing was not the best and snapped the nose gear pin in the process. Once I'm back in the pits I perform individual run ups on the motors and note the left hand motor is cutting out at full power settings, right hand motor operates fine. Further inspection shows there is nothing obviously wrong with wiring or the ESC itself, motor visually appears fine. The one difference between the left and right power setups is the external Castle BEC is attached to the left hand motor and power setup. I can't imagine there is a significant battery load being placed on the battery from normal flight to disrupt normal full power motor operations, but who knows, perhaps this is the case. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem further? Am I making a mistake by running default setups on both the motor and external ESC's? Any other ideas?
Any and all help is much appreciated, thanks all!
TJ
Regardless of your actual setup, by the description of your issue, I would begin troubleshooting by first putting a wattmeter on your two setups and comparing them.
I'm also unclear as to what you mean in the statement "running default setups on both the motor and external ESCs?". You're running anything but what I'd consider "default". Default would be the factory recommended Freewing 80mm setup, or in your case, the Freewing 90mm setup, with Hobbywing ESCs to match. But you're running a Jetfan or Wemo EDF, a "custom" motor, and Castle ESCs. If by "default setup" you mean disconnecting the red wire and instead running a single 20A Castle UBEC with its stock settings, then I would say the disconnected red wires are correct protocol, but the UBEC's "stock" settings may be something you look into further. Not knowing exactly what motor you have, it's impossible to give concrete advise on the UBEC's settings, but I would say look into your motor timing advance and use settings that match your motor's type. Assuming you purchased from Gary at EffluxRC, he'd be the best resource to advise what settings work best with the power system he sold you. And tell him Alpha said hi!
By the way, I was project leader for this A-10, so between myself and the many experience A-10 drivers here on Hobby Squawk, I'm sure we'll be able to help you get to the bottom of this, so you can get back to the business of enjoying flying your Freewing A-10!Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by Alpha View Post
tjkav8tor Hi TJ, welcome home to Hobby Squawk! I'm impressed that our big A-10 is your first EDF! You sound like you have much more experience than that statement would seem to imply. You mentioned that you're running "Efflux fan units"... I assume you mean fan units you bought from Gary at EffluxRC? He's a friend of mine, good guy. Gary sells various fan units, but by your description I am assuming you have either the Jetfan (carbon) EDFs or the Wemo (FRP) EDFs. I'm unclear as to what the "custom" means for your 1450kv motors. He usually uses good motors like HET.
Regardless of your actual setup, by the description of your issue, I would begin troubleshooting by first putting a wattmeter on your two setups and comparing them.
I'm also unclear as to what you mean in the statement "running default setups on both the motor and external ESCs?". You're running anything but what I'd consider "default". Default would be the factory recommended Freewing 80mm setup, or in your case, the Freewing 90mm setup, with Hobbywing ESCs to match. But you're running a Jetfan or Wemo EDF, a "custom" motor, and Castle ESCs. If by "default setup" you mean disconnecting the red wire and instead running a single 20A Castle UBEC with its stock settings, then I would say the disconnected red wires are correct protocol, but the UBEC's "stock" settings may be something you look into further. Not knowing exactly what motor you have, it's impossible to give concrete advise on the UBEC's settings, but I would say look into your motor timing advance and use settings that match your motor's type. Assuming you purchased from Gary at EffluxRC, he'd be the best resource to advise what settings work best with the power system he sold you. And tell him Alpha said hi!
By the way, I was project leader for this A-10, so between myself and the many experience A-10 drivers here on Hobby Squawk, I'm sure we'll be able to help you get to the bottom of this, so you can get back to the business of enjoying flying your Freewing A-10!
So to the details, and to clarify further, I'm running the Jetfan units and my mistake, an 1865KV motor which I believe Gary speced the HET units. By "default setups" I am referring to the Castle ESC's and the Castle Pro 20amp UBEC settings. As I look into the Castle Pro UBEC further I don't really see anything that would affect the Castle Edge ESC performance. My method for attaching the UBEC to the receiver follows their recommendations. And after further evaluation on the bench this morning the left motor runs well when cold, but after running on the bench for a minute or so and then retesting the high throttle setting 'cut outs' begin. Given that I don't have a wattmeter (yet...) further troubleshooting may have to wait a bit to get those readings. I'll also reach out to Gary to see if he has any ideas. Any other thoughts while I'm troubleshooting?
Many thanks again for your insights, I think I'm going to like it here!
TJ
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Originally posted by tjkav8tor View PostThanks for the warm greeting...and I think I'm going to like it here! TJI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Originally posted by didier n View PostHi all, I'd like to share some photo's of my A 10 in the JAWS sceme, it kind'a special...you like it or hate it...DidierI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by tjkav8tor View Post
Thanks for the warm greeting and such a quick reply Alpha, I appreciate your help! As you guessed I'm a 50 year RC guy with lots of experience in flying/building/racing/IMAC...just not much with EDF jets or electric power setups. So I'm a 'getting older dog' acquiring new skills. :-) I can tell you that you and the team did a great job with the A10, it never fails to impress me and the crowd who always stops to watch a flight or three!
So to the details, and to clarify further, I'm running the Jetfan units and my mistake, an 1865KV motor which I believe Gary speced the HET units. By "default setups" I am referring to the Castle ESC's and the Castle Pro 20amp UBEC settings. As I look into the Castle Pro UBEC further I don't really see anything that would affect the Castle Edge ESC performance. My method for attaching the UBEC to the receiver follows their recommendations. And after further evaluation on the bench this morning the left motor runs well when cold, but after running on the bench for a minute or so and then retesting the high throttle setting 'cut outs' begin. Given that I don't have a wattmeter (yet...) further troubleshooting may have to wait a bit to get those readings. I'll also reach out to Gary to see if he has any ideas. Any other thoughts while I'm troubleshooting?
Many thanks again for your insights, I think I'm going to like it here!
TJ
My recommendation remains to get a wattmeter --it will give you actual data from which you can then troubleshoot more effectively and be able to eventually verify your results' consistency.
Originally posted by didier n View Post
Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Hi guys.
One odd thing I found - When I cycle the gear with a servo tester (without the wings on), with the rx lead plugged into the tester, the landing light on the nose gear comes on like it should when the nose wheel comes down. When I have the rx lead plugged into the gear channel on the rx and use the transmitter to cycle the gear the landing light does not come on when the nose gear comes down. Why? I cannot figure out why it would work that way.
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