Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Phantom]

Unless its a demo/airshow flight!!!!! I have no problem slowing this down as i have my ailerons as spoilers and with full flaps and "foe speed brakes" i have to have 3/4 power to just keep it up.

That sounds like a heck of a lot of programming! I fly with two 8,000mah 6s bricks on board and short final all the way to touch down its usually power idle or off.

So if I am tracking your flight modes, you use stock flaps, but also use your ailerons as flaperons? And once on the ground, your flaperons go up for spoilerons? Also does "foe speed brakes" mean "four speed brakes?" Or "for speed brakes?" And are you talking about using your flaps full down and your spoilerons full up after touch down for slowing your ground roll?

I use aerodynamic braking landing with full flaps and keeping the nose wheel off for about 3 seconds. But I'm curious about your configuration.

[sam51401]

I have the ailerons direct to the receiver and can deploy them up in flight. No split ailerons, just spoiler action. I wouldn't use flaparons as i believe too much of a chance of a tip stall. When in this flight mode rudder becomes the directional control of choice.
Wow!, two 8K 6s up front, thats a lot of weight as i have only used the RT 6250 so i bet your flight time is 5+ but you have to use more throttle throughout the flight to carry the weight right?

[Phantom]

I have the ailerons direct to the receiver and can deploy them up in flight. No split ailerons, just spoiler action. I wouldn't use flaparons as i believe too much of a chance of a tip stall. When in this flight mode rudder becomes the directional control of choice.
Wow!, two 8K 6s up front, thats a lot of weight as i have only used the RT 6250 so i bet your flight time is 5+ but you have to use more throttle throughout the flight to carry the weight right?

6 plus minute flight times easily, I don't use anymore throttle than I would with a pair of 5000mah packs in there. I use the RC Juice Hobbystar 8000mah 6s 100C packs. The aircraft couldn't care less about the extra weight, the only change I notice, and it is a slight change, I feel like I might get a little less vertical out of her. But I'm arguing/convincing myself about that half the time lol. I moved the CG way back and fly her gear down configuration at about 12 to 15mm back from what the book calls for. Once the gear swings for the CG moves slightly forward. But with this bird aft CG really benefits the landings.

I fly her with 6000mah to 8400mah packs. My front battery strap hasn't been used since my 12th flight and I'm about 70 flights in now. With the added weight and the fact that she carries her energy so well I can go completely off the throttle for certain manuever much earlier and get back on the throttle much later. An example would be at the top of a loop. I can cut the throttle sooner, complete the rest of the loop throttle off and half enough energy to start my climb for my next maneuver and delay 2 additional seconds before I bring the power back on line. The A-10 is a fantastic bird to practice energy management with if your so inclined.

I have moved the CG back on all my FW birds with positive results. I fly many with up to 8400mah even my F-5 see pic for placement. My 6000mah to 8000mah packs in the A-10 sit side by side towards the back of the battery compartment, again see pics.

[ChiefGeorge]

Why does Freewing recommend the 6s 6000mah for the A-10 at the website?? I bought 4 of them and cant get the CG close to 78mm. Currently the closest I can get to the CG is 64mm, nose heavy. Of course this is without going thru the trouble of relocating the control board....Any simple suggestions on how to get to the recommended CG of 78mm, at lease for my first flight. Should I just go ahead and buy the 5000mah batts ??

[xviper]

Why does Freewing recommend the 6s 6000mah for the A-10 at the website?? I bought 4 of them and cant get the CG close to 78mm. Currently the closest I can get to the CG is 64mm, nose heavy. Of course this is without going thru the trouble of relocating the control board....Any simple suggestions on how to get to the recommended CG of 78mm, at lease for my first flight. Should I just go ahead and buy the 5000mah batts ??

I think the range of 4000 to 6000 mah batteries is a recommended one and is dependent upon various personal preferences for performance and flight time. The 4000's can make for a lighter plane and hence, a bit more peppy performance, while the 6000's can provide for a longer flight time but with a weight penalty and possibly more work to get the correct CG. For example, I fly this plane on 5000's (middle ground) and typically, with the Gens Ace and Admirals, not problem. However, with the HobbyKing Heavy Duty batteries, I can't get the canopy to close when the batteries are located for the correct CG. Sure, I can auger some foam here and there and make it work, but I chose not to use the HD batteries. I think you could get the 6000's to work but it's going to take a bit of modding to make that happen. It sort of depends on how much you really want to use the batteries you've already purchased. Personally, if it were me, after spending that kind of money on batteries, I'd make them work even if it meant relocating something or extending the battery tray and strap. Your 4 batteries probably cost you almost what the plane costs. it would be a shame not to use them. However, if you have other planes that can use them and you can justify the addition purchase of lighter batteries, then sure. Just make sure you take note of the battery's dimensions and weight before you buy. Some 5000mah bats can weigh just as much, if not more, than some 6000mah bats - same principle applies in reverse. You can find 6000s that are small enough and light enough to work in this plane without too much modding.

[Phantom]

Why does Freewing recommend the 6s 6000mah for the A-10 at the website?? I bought 4 of them and cant get the CG close to 78mm. Currently the closest I can get to the CG is 64mm, nose heavy. Of course this is without going thru the trouble of relocating the control board....Any simple suggestions on how to get to the recommended CG of 78mm, at lease for my first flight. Should I just go ahead and buy the 5000mah batts ??

⬆️post #9743, and for the love of Pete, don't fly this bird on the manufacturers CG recommendation. I'm 100% convinced it was engineered for you to have to have to replace nose wheel parts immediately after your maiden. Don't do it, move it back!

[themudduck]

I'm using two 6S RT6250's, one in the front and one in the back, both mounted as far back as possible in the battery bay. (I haven't moved the control board). The RT6250 weighs about the same as the Admiral 5000.
Agree with Phantom (and I like Pete Foss too... and just to be clear, the mfg recommended CG is 78mm) - this plane is much easier to land with the CG moved back some from there..

The Hawg is forgiving and will fly very well nose heavy, but in that condition it definitely likes banging the nose gear first when landing- which either shears the pin or bounces the plane 4-5 times. With the CG back you can hold the flare with the nose up which is the real key to a smooth landing, regardless of which type of LG you are using.

[themudduck]

Hey guys, while we're on the subject of bashing landing gears.... (well that's what it reminded me about) let me share something I did.

I'm sure many of us have seen how over time, the LG struts seem to become loose or wobbly. This can happen when the set screws on the LG leg have become a bit loose (yes that happens and you need to Loctite those buggers), and it can also happen if the plastic retract unit becomes slightly worn from the metal trunnion (or in a bad case, the retract case can have a crack that you may not notice).

So especially on the nose gears on many FW planes, we have installed 3D-printed plastic braces to help stop the LG strut from being forced backwards. The brace helps protect the retract unit and also helps reduce the amount of "wobble".

Ok where am I going with this... my A10's main gear (stock) were quite wobbly so I took them out for service. First thing I did was tighten those set screws, which were loose, and that stopped most of the wobble but there was still some.
So then I was looking around in Thingiverse and unfortunately no one has made a 3D brace for the main gear.

So what I did was cut a square chunk of EPP foam and glued it in as a "backstop" using Foam-tac, in order to brace the strut.

Here is a picture showing the location of the foam on my bird. (The gear is retracted in the photo)
The plastic cover will peel off and can be easily re-installed with Foam-Tac. But you don't have to remove the cover to install the piece of foam.

Its a very simple thing which stops the wobble and will also help protect the retract unit in a hard landing.

[GarrisonR]

⬆️post #9743, and for the love of Pete, don't fly this bird on the manufacturers CG recommendation. I'm 100% convinced it was engineered for you to have to have to replace nose wheel parts immediately after your maiden. Don't do it, move it back!

I'm using two 6S RT6250's, one in the front and one in the back, both mounted as far back as possible in the battery bay. (I haven't moved the control board). The RT6250 weighs about the same as the Admiral 5000.
Agree with Phantom (and I like Pete Foss too... and just to be clear, the mfg recommended CG is 78mm) - this plane is much easier to land with the CG moved back some from there..

The Hawg is forgiving and will fly very well nose heavy, but in that condition it definitely likes banging the nose gear first when landing- which either shears the pin or bounces the plane 4-5 times. With the CG back you can hold the flare with the nose up which is the real key to a smooth landing, regardless of which type of LG you are using.

What are you guys using for CG?

[crxmanpat]

Mine is at 86mm. Control board moved back to the rear holes, RoaringTop 6S 5800 35C's pushed back as far as possible under the straps. And like Mud Duck, I have also used RT 6250's as well.

[Phantom]

What are you guys using for CG?

I fly her 91mm to 93mm back, CG checked upside gear extended. I use 91mm for strong wind and X wind days and 93mm for light wind to no wind days. Makes for easy rotations and touch down on the mains and mains only! The nose then follows touching down as ground speed decreases.

Remember the CG swings forward with the gear in flight. In the pic you can see my marks in the wing root. The mark by itself is the 78mm, the other 2 are the 91mm and 93mm marks.

[GarrisonR]

Awesome thanks crxmanpat and Phantom, I'll try back a bit! Full flaps as well I assume?

[Phantom]

Awesome thanks crxmanpat and Phantom, I'll try back a bit! Full flaps as well I assume?

Full flaps for 80% of landings, a stiff Xwind or a strong windy day with gusts is the only time I land with approach flaps. If I had a nice 700ft runway I'd attempt to land with no flaps just for the heck of it lol But I don't, so I wouldn't dare. 🙃

[crxmanpat]

I only use full flaps when the winds are calm. Most times it's half flaps, or no flaps when I have like 10mph down the runway.

[DCORSAIR]

Not me, I use full flaps no matter what, the A-10 loves anything you throw at it, full flaps in windy conditions is no problem for this big bird, it handles it all very well, best EDF out there in my book.

[ColtPilot]

Hi all as it's been awhile. My A-10 is going into it's 4th season. Added a moving HUD, formation lights and just having fun with it. Also the Model Sounds Inc sound system.

[sam51401]

Moving HUD, LIke to see that!

[Waconut]

Hi guys,
I have been flying gas giant scale R/C and I am making the switch to smaller electric planes. I am considering the A10 for my 1st jet. I will be putting a 250ft grass strip in my back yard, will this be enough room for the A10?
Thanks!!
Anthony

[xviper]

Hi guys,
I have been flying gas giant scale R/C and I am making the switch to smaller electric planes. I am considering the A10 for my 1st jet. I will be putting a 250ft grass strip in my back yard, will this be enough room for the A10?
Thanks!!
Anthony

My A-10 (80mm) can take off from a grass field (~2.5" depth) in about 150 feet or less (on 1/2 flaps). No slow run-up. Just "give 'er" right from the start and it'll take off fine.

[Waconut]

My A-10 (80mm) can take off from a grass field (~2.5" depth) in about 150 feet or less (on 1/2 flaps). No slow run-up. Just "give 'er" right from the start and it'll take off fine.

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I need to go ahead and order one.