Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[MikeT]

Mine came off as well, I just drilled two tiny holes, one at the top and one at the bottom then I put some tiny little screws to hold it on, never had an issue after that.

I did the same.

Mike

[motorc]

Any ideas on how to repair these wing anchors?

[MikeT]

I would just JB Weld them back together.

Mike

[motorc]

Hey Mike, thanks for the input. I thought about just gluing the wings back together but I really like to take them off for transport so I'm saving that as a last resort. One thing I am considering but don't know if it will work is gluing the brass insert to the base of the anchor and then when that dries, make a form out of cardboard and pour JB weld into that, like pouring concrete into a form, and when that dries, sand off the cardboard and any rough areas. Not sure how strong that would be or if it would work.

[MikeT]

I meant just using JB WELD to repair the broken ears using it to reassemble the tabs.

Mike

[motorc]

unfortunately, the broken pieces are gone

[MikeT]

Your running out of options than.

Mike

[motorc]

another thought I had was to get the anchor pieces completely out of the wing and mill new ones out of wood and reinstall, but not sure if its possible to get them out of the wing without ruining the wing.

[Elbee]

motorc,

Check the following link to Motion RC. Are these the parts you are looking for?

These are "In Stock", though the web-page says only 1 set left.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-80mm-edf-a-10-plastic-parts-set-b-fj31111095

Good Luck.

Best, LB

[motorc]

Thats it! thanks LB

just ordered it.

[Elbee]

Thats it! thanks LB just ordered it.

MC, you should be able to slice/cut through the plastic part avoiding cutting the foam the best you are able.

Do this as many times as needed in order to "pull' or "pry" off small pieces a bit at a time without damaging the foam underneath.

You'll be fine.

The glue can be pulled off with your fingers and mineral spirits will dissolve it enough to remove the residue.

Best, LB

[motorc]

thanks LB, I thought I would try making small horizontal cuts in the plastic with a dremel set up with a cutting wheel, trying to be careful not to go too deep.

[Elbee]

motorc, Yeppers, that is a good plan. In my experience with the adhesive, it will release fairly easily once you get started. Cleans up well. Best, LB

[brrzee]

Hi there, could someone on this thread please post a pic of the gear door servo with servo arm attached setup..i had to replace the gear door after a bad land & cant remember how the arm goes on

[spcboarder]

You might want to get a couple and change both sides and keep the one good one as a spare.
Motion has that in stock in the USA. Perhaps you could pay a little extra to have a couple mailed to you. Or, you could get a couple of these from RC Castle:

https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8162

The lead is a bit short but I'm sure you could get a short extension.

If the above doesn't suit you, in that link you put up for the stock servo, you should have seen all the specs for it. From those specs, you should be able to get the same in any other brand. You mentioned HobbyKing. They also give specs for all their servos. However, if you are willing to go with HobbyKing, why not just go with the stock one from Motion.com or RC Castle?

Thank you for the good tips. A few weeks after my post Motion Europe got 6 (!) Servos back in stock so I ordered two immediately. A few days after I had the flap Servos installed, the other flap and aileron servos started shivering. I. The end I ordered a second time. Now all 6 Wing-Servos are replaced and the A-10 is still flying like a charm :)

Br, spcboarder

[mkudzia]

Finally after flying this model for a while and being comfortable with it got around and did the weathering.
Now in the process of 3D printing in LW-ASA some high quality armament for the baby :)

I love doing a nice wide turn into a long final approach maintaining a nice flare for a perfect landing :D

Question: Did anybody manage to replace the led's on the model?

On my scale helicopter builds and composite plane builds I am using a UniLight light system with very strong leds that are even well visible at daytime and look Fabolous in the evening.
I am wondering how much effort would be to redo the leds?
The big question mark is the wiring of the wings with the JST connector; which ones are LED ones and if they are on seperate ground?

[Elbee]

which ones are LED ones and if they are on seperate ground?

MK, First, may I say Welcome to "The Squawk". Great to have you onboard, Sir.

Secondly, It has been a while since I had mine apart, but if you'll look at the wing root, there's a plastic connector for the wing to fuselage electrics.

It will unscrew from the plastic holder. Remove the Plastic holder and look at the Connectors.

Any two (2) wire lead that is connected is an LED light.

Hope this helps.

Best, LB

[RAFALR30]

Time to balance the model - to mount the speakers in the right place. Imagine that after disassembling the armament, the CG remains in the same place - applause for the manufacturer for the thoughtful placement of the pylons. There will be the sound of engines and cannon brrrttt :-)

[Elbee]

RAFALR30, Outstanding work, SIr. Beautiful paint and realistic ordinance. Best, LB

[RAFALR30]

Work completed .
RTF weight 7kg - 7.4kg depending on weapon (3D print) configuration.