Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[bill34207]

Mine is finally almost ready to maiden. Just need to make myself a transport & storage stand before adding the lower fuselage bling.

[dahawk]

Fixing to roll the dice on setting this bird up on my DX8. The dual rates and expo and whatnot will be a problem, but I have to get there first. Wing type, tail type, 400 feet of wiring, two batteries,a BEC thingy that I've never had the pleasure of using. Heck, I'm not even sure how to bind my AR8010T to the DX 8. Sure don't want to let the smoke of anything. HELP!!!

Kurtzz

Maybe you should just get an eflight Apprentice S ? LOL just bustin ya!

It maybe took me 30 minutes to program the A-10 on my DX9 including voice prompts. I set mine with High , Medium and Low rates. If you've bound that rx to the DX-8 before then there should not be a problem. I'm using the same one but without any telemetry sensors hooked up. There are two rows of inputs, right? Just make sure you get the polarity correct. It should bind just like any other DSMX rx from Spectrum.

[Terran47]

I maidened my A-10 this morning and experienced the same issues as the rest. I changed the position of the elevator and added the amount of up as shown in the directions but it was still not enough and I had to add about 5 clicks of up. My CG is dead on, I adjusted the position of the Admiral batteries while adding a total of 2 Oz of weight to the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. The plane flew great and after going to full flaps on landing it floated in with no bounce at all. I used all of the recommended settings but there are a couple of settings that are a little to aggressive, the rudder throw is way to much for low rates and since I fly off of an asphalt runway I fishtailed extensively on takeoff so I reduced the rates so it was more steerable. The directions also said to use full rates on the first flight, that was a mistake and I almost lost it due to over sensitivity. Excellent aircraft.

[Kurtzz]

Maybe you should just get an eflight Apprentice S ? LOL just bustin ya!

It maybe took me 30 minutes to program the A-10 on my DX9 including voice prompts. I set mine with High , Medium and Low rates. If you've bound that rx to the DX-8 before then there should not be a problem. I'm using the same one but without any telemetry sensors hooked up. There are two rows of inputs, right? Just make sure you get the polarity correct. It should bind just like any other DSMX rx from Spectrum.

I appreciate a good busting TY Sir, may I have another! Seems like I have gotten lucky, the 8010T is a brand new receiver, never bound, got it first try. I'm doing the 188 Fighter Wing out of Fort Smith, Arkansas, the "Flying Razorbacks", Callie did my graphics, they are unbelievable, the nose art is crazy. After I get all my linkages set up I'll post a pic or three.

Thanks

Kurtzz

[Aros]

Build went flawlessly. All buttoned up, throws, CG...Was hoping to maiden this evening but alas it's not in the cards. Sports going on at the school and my wing man isn't available, plus dodo head forgot to charge up the 6S 5000's... <face palm>

She's void of any decals because I plan to paint her in the Arctic Camo livery after a few sorties. I've got Callie on speed dial. ;)

As all of you who have one already know, she's one impressive model! Even though I'm in the industry I still marvel at the quality of these foam models coming out these days. With rain coming in, I probably won't be able to maiden until early next week after I get back from Friday Harbor...

[Kurtzz]

A little taste of the Flying Razorback, from Callie.

[1horse59]

Fixing to roll the dice on setting this bird up on my DX8. The dual rates and expo and whatnot will be a problem, but I have to get there first. Wing type, tail type, 400 feet of wiring, two batteries,a BEC thingy that I've never had the pleasure of using. Heck, I'm not even sure how to bind my AR8010T to the DX 8. Sure don't want to let the smoke of anything. HELP!!!

Kurtzz

When you figure it out, let me know

[downwindleg]

So Todd, just wondering since your using the 5000s, where your placement for C.G. was. At the stepdown on mine, I took the front battery flush to the step down and the back battery right up against that same stepdown. I'm thinking the back battery should be an inch or so back from that stepdown but haven't had time to recheck. Whadaya think? Brad

[downwindleg]

Brad, my nose gear had a ton of slop too, and I (think) I addressed the issue this morning. You're correct about it being in the trunion. Sorry but can't take the time now but will post with pics in the morning.
Tom

Thanks Tom, now I'm wondering if the slop was always there or a result of the hard landing. By the way, if you ever get out this way, your welcome to fly at my field anytime and that goes for anyone else on this thread, Brad

[bill34207]

Thanks Tom, now I'm wondering if the slop was always there or a result of the hard landing. By the way, if you ever get out this way, your welcome to fly at my field anytime and that goes for anyone else on this thread, Brad

Mine has not yet been flown. While I had it sitting on the table last night I checked it for slop. I could roll the front wheel close to 1/2" from front to rear, so I'll speculate the play is there from the beginning.

[Mike_Then]

Build went flawlessly. All buttoned up, throws, CG...Was hoping to maiden this evening but alas it's not in the cards. Sports going on at the school and my wing man isn't available, plus dodo head forgot to charge up the 6S 5000's... <face palm>

She's void of any decals because I plan to paint her in the Arctic Camo livery after a few sorties. I've got Callie on speed dial. ;)

As all of you who have one already know, she's one impressive model! Even though I'm in the industry I still marvel at the quality of these foam models coming out these days. With rain coming in, I probably won't be able to maiden until early next week after I get back from Friday Harbor...

Mine is almost done too; did a few more decals last night. The only decals left are the NO STEP and I'm not jumping up and down to put them on so I'll wait on them. :) I need to mount the receiver, position the batteries, balance, set the elevator neutral position, and it's ready. Weather is still hit-or-miss for Saturday but I'm planning to maiden regardless unless the forecast changes to a washout.

[Pogo]

Mine has not yet been flown. While I had it sitting on the table last night I checked it for slop. I could roll the front wheel close to 1/2" from front to rear, so I'll speculate the play is there from the beginning.

Yes, for sure. I haven't had much time to spend on my A-10 (family visiting) and only got it powered up (and nose gear extended) on Tuesday. It too had close to 1/2" play fore and aft as well as some side to side, an unacceptable amount I thought. So, two things:
A slight gap between the retract body and steering arm was tightened up by loosening the grub screws on the strut and steering arm and pushing this assembly together to eliminate the gap and re tightening the screws (though not so much that binding occurs). This eliminated almost all the side play in the strut. BTW, all the screws were nice and tight from the factory with thread locker applied, so that was good.
Secondly, disassembling the retract itself showed that a gap between the trunion and actuator in the down/locked position was allowing the fore and aft movement. Best fix I could come up with was to bond a strip of .4mm (.016") brass I had laying around onto the actuator using JB Weld epoxy. After allowing it to cure overnight I put the retract back together this morning and tested and it's much better with very little play.:Cool: Hopefully this modification will last- we'll see. I would imagine all these retracts have the same issue and am surprised it hasn't come up 'till now- I wonder if half the problems with squirrely steering people are reporting are because of this...
Anyway, I think this is a warranty/QC thing and will be contacting Motion. Perhaps a "V2" of the retract could be offered with more accurately made bits- the design itself seems OK.
Tom

[abeeb]

Hi all! I'm just about ready to maiden as well, but I'd like a final confirmation on the elevator set up. Can someone confirm that I should be lining up the trailing edge of the elevator with the little cluster of bumps (dimples) on the very rear portion of the fuselage? I ask this again because it seems like an awful lot of up trim - almost to the point of thinking that the real issue might be that the COG should be moved back, or that in a future design rev, the angle of attack of the stabilizer should lowered...

[TiredIronGRB]

Hi all! I'm just about ready to maiden as well, but I'd like a final confirmation on the elevator set up. Can someone confirm that I should be lining up the trailing edge of the elevator with the little cluster of bumps (dimples) on the very rear portion of the fuselage? I ask this again because it seems like an awful lot of up trim - almost to the point of thinking that the real issue might be that the COG should be moved back, or that in a future design rev, the angle of attack of the stabilizer should lowered...

Top of elevator at bottom edge of bump.

[TomPatton]

Yes, for sure. I haven't had much time to spend on my A-10 (family visiting) and only got it powered up (and nose gear extended) on Tuesday. It too had close to 1/2" play fore and aft as well as some side to side, an unacceptable amount I thought. So, two things:
A slight gap between the retract body and steering arm was tightened up by loosening the grub screws on the strut and steering arm and pushing this assembly together to eliminate the gap and re tightening the screws (though not so much that binding occurs). This eliminated almost all the side play in the strut. BTW, all the screws were nice and tight from the factory with thread locker applied, so that was good.
Secondly, disassembling the retract itself showed that a gap between the trunion and actuator in the down/locked position was allowing the fore and aft movement. Best fix I could come up with was to bond a strip of .4mm (.016") brass I had laying around onto the actuator using JB Weld epoxy. After allowing it to cure overnight I put the retract back together this morning and tested and it's much better with very little play.:Cool: Hopefully this modification will last- we'll see. I would imagine all these retracts have the same issue and am surprised it hasn't come up 'till now- I wonder if half the problems with squirrely steering people are reporting are because of this...
Anyway, I think this is a warranty/QC thing and will be contacting Motion. Perhaps a "V2" of the retract could be offered with more accurately made bits- the design itself seems OK.
Tom

I had asked about the play in the gear before and I believe it was Aros that said the play was built in to keep gear from breaking. Supposedly a problem with them snapping without the play. I first noticed it on my Avanti when I questioned it and am assuming that the A-10 is the same...
Maybe Aros could comment on this again...

[TomPatton]

I have been looking thru the threads to find out where to purchase the battery connector protector they use in the A-10 build video on the wing connectors... I know someone asked about it and someone answered but I can't find it. I can't find them at MRC either so they evidently don't stock them although the Admiral batteries are coming with them already on the balance plug...
Thanks...
Tom

[Aros]

Yes, folks, as stated before the play in the gear is by design. The rigidity in gear from year's past was found to be a critical reason why gear was failing under heavy load/stress caused from rough/poor landings. The original Twilight Zone episodes would start off with the announcement..."Do not attempt to adjust your television screens..." Well, in this case, "Do not attempt to adjust your nose gear play."

LOL

[crxmanpat]

Tom,

Something like this?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/balance-...6s-yellow.html

[Kurtzz]

Another look at Callie's scrumptious graphics.

[Pogo]

Yes, folks, as stated before the play in the gear is by design. The rigidity in gear from year's past was found to be a critical reason why gear was failing under heavy load/stress caused from rough/poor landings. The original Twilight Zone episodes would start off with the announcement..."Do not attempt to adjust your television screens..." Well, in this case, "Do not attempt to adjust your nose gear play."

LOL

Interesting, but sorry, I don't buy it. Guess I won't be contacting you guys about it after all, though.:)
Tom