Official Freewing 80mm Avanti S Sport Jet Thread

[flap_issue]

Read this post/ regarding wing connectors....
essentially poor QC. hopefully this will help new buyers.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39939291&postcount=5621

[Grossman56]

great info, I'll have to watch out for that on mine. although I've had her for over a year and never had and flap issues.

Grossman56

[Timbo]

Hi everyone, newbie to this jet (and this forum).
A friend has one and after flying it, I pushed the button and got it a few days ago. Having researched, Ive done a few mods and share them here - feedback and other tips welcome
Noseleg brace - filled the hollow plastic mount with balsa/ gorilla glue and fitted aluminium tube to sleeve fixing bolt in front fixing. I drilled out the mount holes and used 50mm long 4mm bolts and nyloc nuts through both front mount holes. I fitted a carbon fibre spreader plate to the top deck where the bolts exit.
Also changed the wiring so it stays hidden within the wheel well. Battery tray extended to hide all wiring. Rubber band on gear door spring. Lam film pieces on wing and elevator tips, as well as the keel and exposed rear edge of eflux tube. I’m planning on using 4 and 4.5A Turnigy packs. I’m showing 23v and 90A on both sizes- so around 2.2kW static.
Ive seen my mate struggle a bit with bouncy landings and subsequent gear damage (slight) and he’s a v good flyer, so any tips please
cheers

[Hemidoo]

Hi everyone, newbie to this jet (and this forum).
A friend has one and after flying it, pushed the button and got it a few days ago. Having researched, Ive done a few mods and share them here - feedback and other tips welcome
Noseleg brace - filled the hollow plastic mount with balsa/ gorilla glue and fitted aluminium tube to sleeve fixing bolt in front fixing. I drilled out the mount holes and used 50mm long 4mm bolts and nyloc nuts through both front mount holes. I fitted a carbon fibre spreader plate to the top deck where the bolts exit.
Aldo changed the wiring so it stays hidden within the wheel well. Battery tray extended to hide all wiring. Rubber band on gear door spring. Lam film pieces on wing and elevator tips, as well as the keel and exposed rear edge of eflux tube. I’m planning on using 4 and 4.5A Turnigy packs. I’m showing 23v and 90A on both sizes- so around 2.2kW static.
Ive seen my mate struggle a bit with bouncy landings and subsequent gear damage (slight) and he’s a v good flyer, so any tips please
cheers

To much speed and using flaps when there's a decent head wind tend to cause my bouncy landings .The Avanti is a great flying EDF ... Have fun Timbo !

[fhhuber]

Flaps actually have little to do with causing bouncy landings.

One of the purposes of flaps is to (try to) force the center section of the wing to stall before the wingtips, resulting in any stall being straight forward rather than dropping a wing. Just a few degrees of flap is VERY effective at this on most aircraft.

Next is improved lift by effectively altering the airfoil to an under-chambered type. This effect is seen best at appx 10 to 30 deg flap deflection.

Finally flaps add drag to aid in slowing the aircraft, allowing a steeper descent without building airspeed. Anything more than 40 deg deflection of any control surface is a huge drag source. Higher drag means a shorter roll-out.

Actually flaps (as used on most models) do very little at decreasing minimum speed to maintain level controlled flight. We almost never install the Fowler flaps that slide back, adding effective wing area, and the relationship of weight to wing area (wing loading) is what controls minimum airspeed for flight. (if you are not hanging on the prop...)

You still have to control the rate of descent and angle of the plane to the ground when it touches. Excess rate of descent at touchdown or a bad angle (or both) are the real cause of the bounce. the "flair" is intended to arrest the descent and give the appropriate nose-up attitude at touchdown to reduce the chance of bouncing, which can lead tot he plane being out of control.

Learning the correct speed and angle for a good landing of different type models is the real key.

[Timbo]

[Grady.c]

Im trying to get into jets so what do you guys think?

1. Avanti: Can it take off in a short distance/land in a short distance? Is it good for a warbird pilot?

2. F-86 80mm: Can it take off in a short distance/land in a short distance? Is it good for a warbird pilot?

I want something easyish to fly and can handle gravel, the gear might have to be tough considering I have limited experience with retracts.

Does anyone know where to get some gear brakes for either plane? I have only around 70 feet of roll down space.

[Hemidoo]

Im trying to get into jets so what do you guys think?

1. Avanti: Can it take off in a short distance/land in a short distance? Is it good for a warbird pilot?

2. F-86 80mm: Can it take off in a short distance/land in a short distance? Is it good for a warbird pilot?

I want something easyish to fly and can handle gravel, the gear might have to be tough considering I have limited experience with retracts.

Does anyone know where to get some gear brakes for either plane? I have only around 70 feet of roll down space.

I'm no expert thats for sure . i know i need more than 70 feet to get my Avanti slowed up on a short cut grass field .

Others will chime In that know more , but Jets need pretty good ground speed to get air going over the control surfaces before lifting off the ground. With full flaps mine will lift off pretty quick but without much speed it's a handful to keep it level

[fhhuber]

Depends on the types you have flown before and how well you adapt to the differences from one type to another as to what would be best as a first EDF.

What is the fastest model you have flown?

As for brakes, there are all sorts of options.
A good one is the simple felt fiction pad adjusted to not prevent the wheel from turning. Cheap, easy and doesn't significantly increase takeoff run, but greatly reduces landing roll-out when adjusted correctly.
DuBro makes a brake kit that is fairly simple based on pulling a line to apply friction to a wheel (generally the nosewheel) Relativvely cheap and once you have bought one, you can replicate it without much trouble.
Then we get into the electromagnetic brakes and air operated or other more expensive types that are generally expensive and weigh enough that you don't want them on smaller than a 90 mm EDF model.

Getting your landing roll down below 70 ft might be a problem.
You might want to have a pop-up catch net. Essentially a badminton net (appx $12 for the net) that you can pull up to stop the airplane in a manner similar to an aircraft carrier emergency landing barrier. Setting that up and adjusting it can get complicated to make it work without having the net cut into the foam. (pulling this idea from catch nets used in slope soaring when there's zero space for a decent landing runway... rocky slopes, brush, etc)


Here's a UAV guy using a net

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwU5ZcbRDK8

[Grady.c]

A upgraded parkzone P-51, it easily does 80mph.

[xviper]

A P-51 "might" get off the ground in about 100 feet. My FMS 1450mm P-51 with full flaps will but it's been upgraded to 6s. My stock Avanti S can't from grass. It needs between 100' and 150', depending on headwind. I kinda doubt it could do it in 70 feet from pavement, let alone gravel. Also, rolling on and off gravel, you will risk ingesting smaller bits of rock and destroying the fan. Even if the plane can get off the ground in a short distance, landing and stopping may be a difficult task. You'd have to be really good at spot landings (touchdown) but then making it come to a stop before you run out of ground (brake or no brake - gravel won't have much friction even with brakes) will be quite difficult. I'd love to see it done. My suggestion would be to find a better place to fly.

[Timbo]

Hi everyone, newbie to this jet (and this forum).
A friend has one and after flying it, pushed the button and got it a few days ago. Having researched, Ive done a few mods and share them here - feedback and other tips welcome
Noseleg brace - filled the hollow plastic mount with balsa/ gorilla glue and fitted aluminium tube to sleeve fixing bolt in front fixing. I drilled out the mount holes and used 50mm long 4mm bolts and nyloc nuts through both front mount holes. I fitted a carbon fibre spreader plate to the top deck where the bolts exit.
Aldo changed the wiring so it stays hidden within the wheel well. Battery tray extended to hide all wiring. Rubber band on gear door spring. Lam film pieces on wing and elevator tips, as well as the keel and exposed rear edge of eflux tube. I’m planning on using 4 and 4.5A Turnigy packs. I’m showing 23v and 90A on both sizes- so around 2.2kW static.
Ive seen my mate struggle a bit with bouncy landings and subsequent gear damage (slight) and he’s a v good flyer, so any tips please
cheers

[Timbo]

Well I’m a dumbass and my maiden flight went badly due to reversed ailerons
Im v lucky in that the only damage was the fin broken and canopy scuffed. I’ll prob repair the fin as getting spares here in UK seems almost impossible but can anyone tell me the right paints to match up the yellows and gray colours please. Thanks

[Hardway]

:( Sorry that happened!!!! Welcome to Hobby Squawk Timbo!!

[Hemidoo]

these were posted earlier in this thread by a another member

[Timbo]

Thanks, but I’m in UK so they don’t mean a lot to me.
Why can’t freewing or motion RC just tell us exactly what paint it is, and where it can be purchased
:Straight-Face:

[cargone]

Timbo, fwiw, to get a color match for touch ups and the like, I have gotten latex (water base) paint samples from my local diy center. I brought in a broken piece of my 1200mm flightline spitfire, and they were able to duplicate the colors so well that it is impossible to see where it was touched up. The cost was a few dollars for the paint sample. I think it was a pint size can, which will last longer than the plane. lol
I am going to do the same for my avanti. (I had a little hiccup on landing.)
Good luck to you.

just got back from Menards, they matched the avanti yellow and gray perfectly, and also got some color matched samples for my F-86, anticipating future touch ups ;)

[rifleman_btx]

Do you guys there not have any hardware store that does color match for paint? That is the easiest route as it is now. If not, man I dont know what the best course is. I wish they would just use a standard color system. That would clear up alot of this stuff from the get go.

[Woodcock]

Thanks, but I’m in UK so they don’t mean a lot to me.
Why can’t freewing or motion RC just tell us exactly what paint it is, and where it can be purchased
:Straight-Face:

Do you really expect MRC to keep color logs for all the models they sell? Listen, any household paint store can color match these colors. They usually only provide samples in semigloss. Which means the sheen might be slightly off, but I always use it and the difference, to me usually gives the model a more authentic look. If you want an exact match you will usually have to commit to a quart. Some paint shops will separate it into two pints, and mix them separately. If you do the pint of sample, at least for me it seems to dry a little to flexible fo my liking. But I've found if you prime with Minwax Polycrilic before painting it sticks so well, you almost have to gouge the foam out to get it off.
I don't really like the finish of coating the whole model with the Minway, just a preference thing.

You can't expect MRC or anyone to manage color charts for all these products, they're in the model business, not the paint business. Even if they did, you would find the color to be off, which is why we have to get it matched. Because even the correct color wouldn't match due to variances in the paint batches.

Best Regards
Woody

PS household pain stores cannot do a Florescent Color. They don't have the necessary ingredient for matching. If you need a Florescent you will have to go to a custom automotive paint store. W

[Grady.c]

A P-51 "might" get off the ground in about 100 feet. My FMS 1450mm P-51 with full flaps will but it's been upgraded to 6s. My stock Avanti S can't from grass. It needs between 100' and 150', depending on headwind. I kinda doubt it could do it in 70 feet from pavement, let alone gravel. Also, rolling on and off gravel, you will risk ingesting smaller bits of rock and destroying the fan. Even if the plane can get off the ground in a short distance, landing and stopping may be a difficult task. You'd have to be really good at spot landings (touchdown) but then making it come to a stop before you run out of ground (brake or no brake - gravel won't have much friction even with brakes) will be quite difficult. I'd love to see it done. My suggestion would be to find a better place to fly.

Well its really packed down and smoothish and in this video it take off really quick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pcqX67q87A