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Official Freewing 80mm Avanti S Sport Jet Thread

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  • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post

    Yeah there is some carving that will be needed, and if memory serves you need to either move the esc back or extend the wires, because the fms motor wires are shorter.
    Yes the FMS motor wires are shorter. I got the E-Flite 100Amp ESC with longer wires to solve this...also you can just relocated the stock ESC. 100Amp ESC handles the FMS 2100kv fan with no problem.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Jabowil View Post
      Is there someone who can 3d print and sell some straight Wing Fences for the FW Avanti S 80 mm?

      Thanks
      There is more than likely a local enterprise that does 3D printing. Google is your friend on that. If you can't find a local service, there are also 3D printing companies on Internet. I can't find the company I used a few years ago -- before a couple friends of mine got 3d printers. Now I pay them.


      EDIT: I finally found the link to the online outfit I've used with great success. https://www.shapeways.com/

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      • 80mm 9-Blade EDF 6S Power System w/ 3530-1900kV Motor
        can anyone tell me if this power setup will work/fit in the yellow avanti? which came with an outrunner originally
        thanks

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        • Originally posted by Daryl View Post
          80mm 9-Blade EDF 6S Power System w/ 3530-1900kV Motor
          can anyone tell me if this power setup will work/fit in the yellow avanti? which came with an outrunner originally
          thanks
          yes this will work
          rc flyin addict

          Comment


          • Thanks for your reply :)

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            • What has been people’s experience trying this on 3300s or 4000s? I had in other forums that as long as they where not looking for speed the light wing loading by allowed for decent flight times at 40%-50% throttle.

              A local guy is possibly looking to trade his Avanti S for one of my planes my only hold up is not wanting to get 6s 5000

              Comment


              • Originally posted by StratoJoe View Post
                What has been people’s experience trying this on 3300s or 4000s? I had in other forums that as long as they where not looking for speed the light wing loading by allowed for decent flight times at 40%-50% throttle.

                A local guy is possibly looking to trade his Avanti S for one of my planes my only hold up is not wanting to get 6s 5000
                If you're going to use a 3300 or 4000, then I doubt you'll get much over 3:30 (unless you fly like my grandma used to drive). I'm using a RT6250, weighing 795 gr and get 5 minutes of aggressive flying, including knife edge at near full throttle. It does cruise very well at 50% throttle or less, even with the extra weight compared to a 3300 mah battery. There's nothing this air frame can't do with a heavier battery (unlimited vertical, take-off, knife edge, etc.) and the extended flight time just adds to the fun. IMO, you'd be better off getting some 5-6000's and use those because at some point, you'll need them in other aircraft (like 90 mm F-4s, F-16, F-18, Corsair, Spitfire, etc. etc. etc.). Don't limit the enjoyment of this aircraft by cutting the flight time short!

                Regardless of the battery you use, the Avanti S 80 mm is one of, if not, the best sport foam EDF's. Flies and lands like a trainer, yet blows the pants of the Habo and Havok (which was invented and licensed by a good flying buddy of mine-and I always rib him about the Avanti being better than his Havok when I fly it-of course his true version is a huge turbine which ain't too shabby-his company is AeroSports and he is the best turbine jet pilot/designer/builder south of the north pole).
                Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

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                • A different idea I just had was build an 8s version by lashing up a pair of 4s batteries. Of course I would have to figure out which motor to use. My idea would be to have to keep the overall wattage and thrust about the same as 6s but allow it to run at a lower amp rating with the higher voltage.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by StratoJoe View Post
                    A different idea I just had was build an 8s version by lashing up a pair of 4s batteries. Of course I would have to figure out which motor to use. My idea would be to have to keep the overall wattage and thrust about the same as 6s but allow it to run at a lower amp rating with the higher voltage.
                    That would be an awesome setup on 8S. Not sure what fan is available, I don't think Freewing and FMS make an 80mm 8S EDF. There is the Jet Fan V3 80 mm for 8S, but not sure where you can get it, except maybe Australia. You'd also need the inlet adaptor to fit into the Avanti. Cost would be somewhere between $130-$190 if you can find it, then you'd also have to upgrade the ESC. All said and done, you might end up with close to $300 in it. Too rich for my blood, especially since the 6S version sort of gives me everything I would want to ask for, but that's just me.
                    Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                    Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                    Comment


                    • I think if I where to use a motor for a 90mm fan such as 4075-1390kV and run it with an 80mm fan I think a castle HV120 (Which I have on hand) should be all that's needed to run it. In this case its just an example. It would take a lot more research.

                      I know EDFs are a little different then messing around with prop planes. In a past experiment I had a friend that really liked to play around with power systems and he had found a 12s setup in some 3D planes allowed to get the power on the prop we wanted and allow us to use our 6s 3300 in series vs some really large 6s and 8s setups. The idea in that case was due to have a lot of 6s 3300s since it was what the 60" 3DHS/Extreme Flight planes used. Sadly he's not in the hobby anymore or he would likely try something out like that again for the Avanti.

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                      • I guess from a different perspective when the Change Sun 10 Blade 70mm EDF came out people found that instead of pulling 90 amps from a 4s 3300Kv setup they could pull only 70 amps from a 6s 2100Kv setup. I remember seeing a thread about it but never tried it.

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                        • Hi Everyone,

                          Finally got some nice flights with my Avanti S. Love the freakin thing. It flies so smoothhhhhhhhh
                          Recently added the 3d printed nozzle which in my opinion completes this epic model.
                          Attached some photo's.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by StratoJoe View Post
                            What has been people’s experience trying this on 3300s or 4000s? I had in other forums that as long as they where not looking for speed the light wing loading by allowed for decent flight times at 40%-50% throttle.

                            A local guy is possibly looking to trade his Avanti S for one of my planes my only hold up is not wanting to get 6s 5000
                            I fly mine on 3300's , 4000's , and 5000's ... I like the 4000's the best

                            Comment


                            • Info that may be useful. Forgive me if this is redundant or out of place. Correct and/or add whatever you think is needed. Hope this helps.

                              Batteries & Power
                              All sellers lie, it is only a question of how bad.
                              If you assume 50% of the rated C, you should be good.
                              Higher V - higher price, more weight, cells & power.
                              Higher A - higher price, more weight & run time.
                              Higher C - higher price, more weight & power.
                              Lithium Polymer (There are many types of Lithium.)
                              Voltage Max 4.20, Dead 3.27, Safe Min 3.71, 3.75 better, Store 3.84
                              Temp Max 140F, Min 32F, Ideal 110F
                              Max current available AxC. Max power in Watts VxA
                              Lo A pack needs higher C to equal same power as hi A pack.
                              2.5A x 40C = 100A 5A x 20C = 100A
                              Hi V with Lo A gives same power as Lo V Hi A.
                              4V x 5A = 20W 8V x 2.5A = 20W
                              Hi V uses smaller, lighter, less expensive wire and connections.
                              Hi V uses more expensive ESC. Danger of shock past 50V and will arch.

                              Run Time
                              Assuming the pack capacity is accurate, which it is probably low.
                              Measure the Amp draw at various throttle positions.
                              Use the ESC rating as the max.
                              100A ESC / 5A pack = 20 (You need 20C so use a 40C pack.)
                              60 Min / 20 = 3 Min until DEAD pack (BAD!)
                              3 Min x .8 = 2.4 Min (2 Min 24 Sec) runtime with 20% reserve.
                              100A ESC / 3.3A pack = 30.3 (You need 30C so use a 60C pack.)
                              60 Min / 30.3 = 1.98 Min (1 Min 58.8 Sec) runtime with 20% reserve.
                              At an average 50A draw, the runtime will be twice.
                              Roughly 5 Min with a 5A pack and 4 Min with a 3.3A pack.

                              Brushless Motors
                              Without brushes there are no wear, bounce, arch and speed/balance problems.
                              Descent motor bearings can run faster than any fan can withstand.
                              Silicone insulation 600V-1000V and 482F (302-572F). PVC 221F, Teflon 842F.
                              Magnet wire insulation 600V-thousands and 221F-428F to as high as 1000F.
                              Metal melt points: Copper 1984F, Silver 1761F, Aluminum 1220F, Lead 621F, Tin 449F.
                              Copper wires can be bare, tinned with solder or silver clad.
                              Solder (If used, usually crimps or welds internally) melt points:
                              63/37 361F, 60/40 361F-374F, 95/5 450F-464F
                              Neodymium Iron Boron magnet grade max temp:
                              N 176F, NM 212F, NH 248F, NSH 302F, NUH 356F, NEH 392F, NAH 428F
                              Magnet glue max temp:
                              I don't know about the factory glues.
                              J-B Weld epoxy 500F
                              Some people use Loctite 480 (A type of CA/super glue) which is only 180F.
                              Bearing lube max temp:
                              160F-180F
                              Some electric motor grease can go to 500F, but I don't know of any for RC use.

                              If the heat is kept below 140F, you can safely run any motor VERY hard at higher voltage.
                              Most will run over 200F at a reduced lifespan. Wattage creates the heat.
                              The fan shroud needs to be metal to draw heat and not distort. The RPM of the fan
                              must not be exceeded and of course proper balance is always needed.
                              Increase fan diameter for more thrust/punch/torque and increase pitch for speed.

                              Comment


                              • I made vortex generators for it.



                                Attached Files

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                                • Hey all, just wanted to share a couple pics of my Avanti S from this past weekend ... installed a clear canopy, pilot and blacked out the cockpit insert. I have 25 flights on this jet, the last 3 were on grass for the first time and despite sensitive steering issues, it took off and landed with ease! Absolutely in Love with this model and I have nothing but good things to say about it's appearance and flight characteristics ... Click image for larger version

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                                  • Probably shouldn't black out the cockpit insert. I can see the gatoring from here!



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                                    • Originally posted by bandetx View Post
                                      Probably shouldn't black out the cockpit insert. I can see the gatoring from here!


                                      Yes, I could have spent more time prepping and it is far from perfect - but the tinted canopy hides the imperfections, the clear one is being used for the on-board camera use ... I checked out some of your many posts, I can see why this detail on my Avanti would be annoying to see ... knowing you are an advanced builder takes the sting out of that comment, Ha ha!

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by VerticalAddiction View Post
                                        Hey all, just wanted to share a couple pics of my Avanti S from this past weekend ... installed a clear canopy, pilot and blacked out the cockpit insert. I have 25 flights on this jet, the last 3 were on grass for the first time and despite sensitive steering issues, it took off and landed with ease! Absolutely in Love with this model and I have nothing but good things to say about it's appearance and flight characteristics ...
                                        I also changed my shaded canopy for the clear one after I did a little cockpit work. Just sanded and coated the foam with epoxy, then repainted it and added the pilots and some instruments from IflyTally. It's pretty basic, but better than the way it comes. It was tough to see inside with the shaded canopy, so swapped out to the clear one. It's been out in the Florida sun for some 200 flights and the smooth epoxy surface has endured, although I do not leave it sitting out in the hot sun when not flying, as I do with all my foam aircraft.

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                                        Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                                        Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                                        Comment


                                        • Love those clear canopies guys, amazing how much it changes the look of this plane

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