Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[davegee]

Today it is cold and dreary outside so I made some small items to add after painting. I made the light Lense mold from wood glued to a stick to shape/sand and handle to make the imprint in clay. I used this to make the lense and also the radio insulator that goes on the right side of the fuselage behind the canopy. I made the antenna mounting wire holder from an old typewriter spring and alum flashing and Critical Mass nuts. I used clear epoxy resin from the craft store. I will need to polish the lense to brighten , not bad but the clay mold left a slight hue in the lense. Anyone suggest the best way to polish these?
Getting ready to spray some Min-Wax Poly clear satin on plane. How much do you all thin for a consistent coverage.. What air pressure do you recommend? Planning on 3-4 lite coats before color paint. Encluded a couple of photos

Best Regards, Rex

Looking good, Rex. Regarding the lens, I would probably start by using my dremel tool with a cloth polishing wheel that I have for it. If you have a dremel and that polishing head, that would probably be a safe place to start, being very careful, of course. Others might have other ideas, too.

As far as compressor output pressure, I would experiment on a piece of cardboard or something, first. I'd probably start at around 25-30 psi, maybe go up to 40 psi if it doesn't start to drip. For smaller areas, I use a much lower pressure out of my airbrush, around 15-20 psi. I'm assuming you're using maybe a bigger gun than an airbrush for the whole plane? You could probably use an airbrush, but that is a lot of territory to cover and not get inconsistent with thickness of the minwax application. Again, I would start with a test strip of foam, old wing or something, and see what works best for coverage. Just my take on it, anyway.

davegee

[jetfool]

Thanks Dave. I will use my dremel and buffing pad. Didn’t know if toothpaste or polish wax would work. I need to go slow because don’t want to build up a lot of heat being made of clear epoxy
I have a Passche VL, old badger airbrush and a couple of touch up guns. Just wanted to know what everyone else was using for settings. I use windshield washer fluid for thinning latex. Probably use water for the clear satin. I practice on dollar general styrofoam boards
Thanks for your advice, Rex

[davegee]

Thanks Dave. I will use my dremel and buffing pad. Didn’t know if toothpaste or polish wax would work. I need to go slow because don’t want to build up a lot of heat being made of clear epoxy
I have a Passche VL, old badger airbrush and a couple of touch up guns. Just wanted to know what everyone else was using for settings. I use windshield washer fluid for thinning latex. Probably use water for the clear satin. I practice on dollar general styrofoam boards
Thanks for your advice, Rex

Yes, some non-abrasive paste like toothpaste or or a polish wax as well as the dremel and the polishing pad could be a good experiment. Always good to practice on something first before applying to your model.

I also have used plain, cheap windshield washer fluid for years, in up to about 50% mix with latex paint really work great. Sometimes looks horrible at first, but once the water in the fluid evaporates, you get a very nice finish. Have used it on fabric for WWI kit airplanes, really does a nice job on fabric or muslin, too.

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I made 8 lences so I would have a few to practice on. Not hard to make just takes 24hr for the epoxy to set up. I usually use silicone to make my molds but this was a quick way to see what I could do and pressed the impression in the clay and poured them all at once. Saved mixing epoxy for such a small part.
I also installed the gun camera in the wing. Followed your example and it came out really nice. Almost all the details I plan to add are installed or waiting on paint to install. Callie graphics will be here this week so hoping to be ready to do set up, taxi test by late March. Rex

[f4u ausie]

Davegee,
I have plans to buy the Bubble Top, I like the Color of the Corsairs off the USS Franklin. So the F2G-2 could be a possibility. Can't have too many Corsairs! I have plenty of these, kinda like you and the P-47. Next plane I buy is a toss-up between the Tigercat, P-38, ME 262,or Phantom. Several guys in another club are into EDFs, would be my first EDF for me. They are about 30 miles away from me but fly their EDFs every Wednesday all day. Would be fun to fly off their paved strip. Time will tell. I'm waiting to see if Flight Line introduces another Warbird this spring.
I have plenty of work to do on this before spring so will have plenty of time to decide.

Rex

Well due ,, many would agree , for a 1600 single prop warbird zero,, f6f p51. Something

[jetfool]

Question for all of you. The generator scoop on the right side of the fuselage was only used on the F4U-2 in the research I have found. Is this correct? Plan to sand this scoop off if it wasn’t on most Corsairs. Rex

[jetfool]

Bet it is a great conversation piece when you have friends over LOL
Added some panel lines that were on the F4U-1.

cold,cloudy day…….did I say it was cold
Rex

[Elbee]

Corsair Connoisseurs. quick update, firstly, finally received (customs and whatnot) the VMS XXL Matt Varnish from the Czech-land. Wanted to spray a final coat on my 3DP pilot.

Finishes him off quite nicely, I think. Also, wanted the stuff to barrier coat over Callie Graphics fabulous markings which come really glossy and any other glossy marking, sticker, decal...I use lacquer based matte as my last step on the whole airframe.

Secondly, as I wrote early on, I wanted to dress up the MG Struts along with the Robart wheels dress up many of you have already added to your Corsairs.

The goal is to replace the OEM Robart wheel with a greater detailed set which includes bearings and do so without adding any additional weight in comparison.

For me that starts with an overall design that will be put on a diet as the versions improve (much like this guy).

Should be fun and the end results, which include strut covers, should be pretty cool.

In the days of yore, Robart used to (and might still) manufacture strut covers for the wire gear MG and so many of Freewing/Flightline A/C would benefit.

More when there is more. Best, LB

[jetfool]

Looking great Elbee. Your backside hub is outstanding, puts my handmade to shame. Rex

[jetfool]

Elbee,
Bad choice of words from me. I meant I'm impressed not only with your design abilities but more so on the capibilities of a 3-D printer. The accurancy of spacing and intricate detail that can be achieved mutable times is light years ahead of doing it by hand. I 'm happy with what I have made and nobody in my club, outside of my scale buddy, will notice the wheel anyway. I am having a great time modifying my Corsair to my minds eye. The more 3-D designs I see , the more I want to get my own in the future. Your right- These new ways of building are amazing.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Rex, right you are, Sir and thanks. I don't see this as old school versus new school as some have said, IMO old school was new school once.

I've built my details by hand like everyone, measuring and cutting, but when it came to duplicating parts even for a matching pair, my enthusiasm waned.

The second part would be better than the first, or the first better than the second, so there'd inevitably be a third.

BTW, it is NOT faster to design, print, modify, print, modify, print, post process and paint. That's the dirty little secret about 3DP technology; it is about repetition of a finished design and honing that into a really great part.

Scratching out one or two-off is time consuming but faster than design/print/modify....at least for me.

I worked part-time at a hobby shop for 8+ years in the '80s. We sold a lot of Robart wheels and retracts, but not many strut covers. The reason is those just are not worth the money for the look, but it was the thing, right?!

You see where I'm going with this, I always thought there's got to be something better, but there never was. The same goes for pilot figures, cockpit kits, wheels/tires, and so on.

That's' the potential I saw in CAD design and 3DP printing; a technology that lets me build what I see in my mind's eye and to completely control the outcome.

Is it the same as 'scratch-building' from bits of ply, plastic, metal tubing and wire? I say, absolutely, and I've done plenty of both. In the end I still have to make it fit, assemble and paint it correctly.

The methodology is different, but the outcomes are similar and 3DP has the greater side benefit of repeatability and if I choose, I can pass along a part to anyone in the world.

What is not to embrace, here. Best, LB

Well said, LB!! I think I am going to have to get very serious on buying a simple 3D printer to start on this new road of making things!

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

That’s the one I’m looking at. Our high school has one so I can get help to learn from the teacher. Will make my learning curve much easier. Would be fun going back to the old alma-mater to learn Rex

[jetfool]

Yeah, I have been reading and watching videos on the net and these will probably be my textbooks when I get there. Rex

[jetfool]

Yes, Callie is making up Ken Walsh’s first Corsair. It is not the one with the shamrock but 13 on fuselage and a smaller 13 underneath the canopy. She said it should be here this Friday. It is nice to work with someone who goes beyond the call of duty to make a customer happy.
I think 3-d is like any tool, you put it to use on something you really enjoy and the process is easier to learn. Like my lathe and milling machine, I can spend hours and not realizing the time. Figuring out in my mind how to do it is fun also.
Best Regards, Rex

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[Grossman56]

For all you bird cage people, this is an amazing video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET2JFub_fyE

Grossman56

[jetfool]

Thanks Grossman. Great video. Looks like I need to paint my retract area in the fuselage salmon
Rex

[f4u ausie]

For all you bird cage people, this is an amazing video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET2JFub_fyE

Grossman56

Thats the third of those vids now,,, they do an awsome job at vultures row... cant wait to see it finished

[davegee]

Thats the third of those vids now,,, they do an awsome job at vultures row... cant wait to see it finished

This is a fabulous video for modelers and anyone interested in the inner workings of the early model Corsairs. I've been through most of this one, and will be sure to see the last part when I get the time. Thanks for posting!!

davegee

[Grossman56]

You were the first guy I thought of when I saw this video Dave, so much for modelers to glean from it. Just the Salmon colored zinc chromate is golden info. I suppose the Flightline Birdcage comes with green gear bays.
Imagine, they're actually going to make brand new Corsairs! I've heard that there is a company in Germany making FW 190's and one in England making Spitfires. Dogfights with paint ball machine guns may become a new international sport!

Grossman56

[Elbee]

You were the first guy I thought of when I saw this video Dave, so much for modelers to glean from it. Just the Salmon colored zinc chromate is golden info. I suppose the Flightline Birdcage comes with green gear bays.
Imagine, they're actually going to make brand new Corsairs! I've heard that there is a company in Germany making FW 190's and one in England making Spitfires. Dogfights with paint ball machine guns may become a new international sport! Grossman56

G56, do you remember our HS Member and good friend Hardway (Jerry)? When he started his Birdcage repaint, one of the first things he wrote about was finding the correct color 'salmon' by mixing Ammo or AK or Vallejo paints. Those early posts should be here somewhere. Man, I miss that guy. Best, LB