Very cool! I am just so impressed with the fine job folks have been doing on their liveries with this model. Can't wait to add mine.
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Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread
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Originally posted by 4923crew View PostFirst Flight video footage of my custom AL37 made into a close but not exact Kc-135. It flew really well and other than the extra battery weight, there was minimal change to flight characteristics from stock.
video link below:
https://youtu.be/Z7AxmLq6O-Y
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by 4923crew View PostWell my customizing mind just can’t rest. I had the idea to make a tanker out of an AL37 and ended up with my KC-37 (not a real bird). Well like I said above I cant rest. Well without further delay. Introducing the AL37 in an attempt to make a KC-135 Tanker. I added two more 70mm motors and nacelles making a QUAD 70mm edf jet.
Well what do you think??? The first flight after this mod will hopefully be accomplished tomorrow (weather permitting)
Very cool. I thought you were just adding the nacelles only! Looked like it flew well but tankers are built to carry a lot of weight. ;-) World's first KC-137.....
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Hello all just received my airliner few weeks ago unfortunately had some issues with paint peeling but motion being the great guys they are sent me out my replacement parts without any problems got it all back together he was wondering if I could get some help I had to replace the two engine pods and I was in a rush when I took the electronics out of them I did not mark which one was left or right since I know one of them has reverse thrusting on it was wondering if someone could give me some close-up pictures of the blades so that way I can make sure that I put mine back together correctly thanks a bunch
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Originally posted by LowandSlow View Postslick580, The right side engine has the reversed fan disc and motor. You can go to MotionRC's site and pull up the AL37 then go to spare parts and look at the reversed EDF to get a visual of the orientation of the fan blades.
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Originally posted by Slick580 View Post
Yea was on there found the replacement motor but could not see the blades or anything I believe I have them in correctly I believe the wires are crossed on it as well one of them goes from yellow to red in the engine side. Just wanted to be safe
If you have the reverse fan(below) installed on the right wing the blade should turn clockwise when viewed from the front. If it is the other normal fan it should be turning counter-clockwise.
This is what the reverse turning(cw) fan should look like from the front of the plane. If it is turning CCW swap two of the motor leads and it will turn CW and pull the plane instead of pushing air.
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Originally posted by 4923crew View PostFirst Flight video footage of my custom AL37 made into a close but not exact Kc-135. It flew really well and other than the extra battery weight, there was minimal change to flight characteristics from stock.
video link below:
https://youtu.be/Z7AxmLq6O-Y
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Howdy...Following up on a prior post and reporting on how my AL37 window lighting "experiment" is progressing. GREAT NEWS...I FOUND A SOLUTION that is very light weight and works well.
If you are considering adding this effect, you should do it BEFORE you join the fuselage halves. It's a real challenge to add the fiber optic light pipes after the halves are joined. I decided to stop at 5 windows and the cockpit.
SUMMARY BULLETS- With this solution, there is no need to paint the interior black to block out the light from an interior light source
- My initial attempt to use an LED strip required a black coating of the interior to prevent the lighted flying banana look.
- I found that the fuselage is so thick that no light was able to show through the window holes with a general interior lighting scheme...SCRATCHED THAT IDEA!
- My initial attempt to use an LED strip required a black coating of the interior to prevent the lighted flying banana look.
- The fiber optic solution adds very little weight.
- A 5 mm, end glow, plastic fiber optic light pipe is the perfect size (7 mm outside diameter).
- Very little power drain. The LED light source box is powered directly off the 6S flight battery by the regulator.
- Note: The window decal placement is either slightly above or at the longitudinal fuselage brace. Partially drilling into this brace is not going to weaken the structure because when you use 5 min epoxy (i used Kwik Weld J.B. Weld) and secure the optic fiber into the cut-out, it's much stronger than the foam you cut away.
- The light-exit end of the fiber optic light pipe seals the hole in the fuselage. No additional sealing is necessary for this to look good.
- 20 feet of 5 mm, end glow, fiber optic, solid core / overall diameter is 7 mm purchased from www.wiedamark.com
- This will do about 20 windows...depending on which windows you select. More fiber optic will be needed if you do the windows in the rear.
- Electronics were purchased from www.davesrc.com and consists of the following:
- White color LED light strips sold in 1 meter lengths. You can cut and/or join these strips to suite your needs with the solderless LED strip connectors from DavesRC.
- LED Dimmer/Flasher - adjusts the lighting effect and the light intensity...I used only the dimmer function.
- Adjustable voltage regulator based on the XLE4005E1 regulator
- Needed to reduce the 6S flight-battery voltage down to 12 volts that is required by the LED light strip.
- Several Solderless LED Strip Connectors.
- Several mini-JST Connectors.
- 5 min epoxy...I used Kwik Weld by JB Weld)
- 20 or 22 gauge stranded wire
- Something you can make an opaque light source box from. An old iPhone 4/4S Otter Box is perfect for the job.I used electrical tape to cover the clear window side.
- You can get about 12 light pipes stuck into this Otter Box...more light pipes will require that you make another light source box
- Cut several additional holes in the Otter Box to accept the fiber optic "source" end of the light pipe.
- Dremel tool
- Electrical tape
- Hot Glue Gun
- I stripped away the 1 mm thick outer covering of the central clear light pipe core for about 2 inches and inserted this "naked" core into the light box. This makes the light pipe "source" end just about the perfect diameter to insert into the Otter Box holes.
- Keep the fiber optic away from the flight battery area or you'll find it is a REAL challenge to insert the flight battery into the belly. Ask me how I figured this out? LOL
- You can solder the JST female connector to the two small wires coming from the EC5 connector (EC5 side of the UBEC...not the output side of the UBEC) to get the power for the regulator. Just secure all this with zip ties to minimize the flexing of the wires going to the UBEC. Would hate to have a metal fatigue induced failure here.
- I parallel connected off the regulator output side two additional wires (one + and one -) and ran these to the cockpit where they powered a 3-LED segment for the cockpit lighting.
- The LED light strips are cut-able every 3 LEDs.
Post photos, If you decide to do this with more window.
Cheers - Glider Guy
Example of One Fiber Optic Run...
Fiber optic seals the hole just perfect....
LED strip secured with hot glue inside the light source box...Take s lot of hot glue because it doesn't stick to the LED strip very well.
You can see the "extra" holes that were cut in the sides of the Otter Box to accommodate the insertion of the "source" end of the light pipes.
Looking back towards the tail...light source box Velcro'd to the flat shelf behind the battery tray...
Black tape around the LED light source box does not contrast with the black interior very well.
Simulated post sunset lighting w/o exterior lights turned on....I was experimenting with the LED intensity.
The middle window appears to be washed out by the root landing light. This is an artifact of the camera.
You can actually see it quite well. No Winglets?...I wan't flying / Too Windy.
The wheel well landing light washes the fuselage with quite a bit of light. This cockpit lighting effect looks better in person.
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- With this solution, there is no need to paint the interior black to block out the light from an interior light source
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