Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[DHebb]

Thanks xviper for info: I went back and looked at everything> So what I was calling the ESC's was actually the BEC and this is plugged into the first port on the receiver AR7350 marked Batt., the next port on the receiver is marked Bind/program/. The two wires marked throttle are plugged into the Control Board. The one wire coming out of the Control Board is marked throttle and is connected to the receiver where I have set up for receiver port marked number # 1. I turned the transmitter on first and still doing samething! another weird thing is I no response on the gear channel. I just started into this hobby last year so still not sure about some things!!

[Clearblue]

So I've been running the HRB 5000 mah packs in my A10 since last year. Second flight today was with last years batteries, I'm guessing they have 25 cycles? today's flights were just short of four minutes of easy flying. The Packs came back hot and swelled some. Battery checked said 14% left on each pack? Typical for these packs is 28%. These packs say 50-100 c which I know is over rated by a good bit. But, up until today, had preformed fine. Guess my question is what's the groups favorites? Thinking I'll try some Roaring tops 70c rated packs. Thought's? Thanks in advance. Jim

[xviper]

Thanks xviper for info: I went back and looked at everything> So what I was calling the ESC's was actually the BEC and this is plugged into the first port on the receiver AR7350 marked Batt., the next port on the receiver is marked Bind/program/. The two wires marked throttle are plugged into the Control Board. The one wire coming out of the Control Board is marked throttle and is connected to the receiver where I have set up for receiver port marked number # 1. I turned the transmitter on first and still doing samething! another weird thing is I no response on the gear channel. I just started into this hobby last year so still not sure about some things!!

You have the BEC connected into the correct port (BAT). It would appear that you also have the throttle plug from the control board plugged into the correct port (#1). Since you say you're relatively new to this, may I point out a couple of things for you to check …………………….
1. Each plug has "polarity". IE, black (or dark) wire is ground, middle wire is power, white (or lighter) wire is signal. (Except that the BEC plug for this plane only has 2 wires - ground and power). Plugs must be installed with the correct polarity (as should ALL the plugs in the RX). If they are turned around, nothing will work the way they should. Check the 2 throttle plugs in the control board and ensure they are correct polarity. Same goes for the one going into your #1. In your case, top is ground (negative).
2. Check that the throttle trim on the TX is clicked down as low as it will go and make sure that the throttle is NOT reversed. Look at the "monitor" to see this is so. If throttle is reversed, it won't bind. Try to bind it again but stand about 10 feet away before doing it.
3. Have you connected the RX to the APP? Or is it straight out of the box? I'm worried that you may have inadvertently changed something in the programming (as in re-assigned ports).
As you are new, I would suggest that you get a standard 6-ch receiver and hook that up just to see that everything works. The AS3X receiver is nice but it's not always simple to figure out what it's doing. At least this way, you can eliminate the Rx as the possible problem area. I've used a couple of the AR636's and there is a lot to learn before setting one up for use in a plane. There is a guy at my field who uses a lot of these AS3X Rx's and he's still figuring out some of the programming features of them. It took him weeks just to make his first ones actually work in his planes. He's starting to give up on them and use standard RXs now. They are great when they come with planes already pre-programmed.

[Elbee]

So I've been running the HRB 5000 mah packs in my A10 since last year. Second flight today was with last years batteries, I'm guessing they have 25 cycles? today's flights were just short of four minutes of easy flying. The Packs came back hot and swelled some. Battery checked said 14% left on each pack? Typical for these packs is 28%. These packs say 50-100 c which I know is over rated by a good bit. But, up until today, had preformed fine. Guess my question is what's the groups favorites? Thinking I'll try some Roaring tops 70c rated packs. Thought's? Thanks in advance. Jim

Clearblue, I fly RT 6s 35c 6250mah batts in my A-10 on a recommendation from RCJD and set my timer for 4 minutes and then begin finals. I have flown take-off to landing 5 minutes, I did not have my batt checker with me, though I checked the batts when I got home and voltages for 5 minutes were 1) 20.21v & 2) 21.32v. I am having no issues with 35c, Best, LB

[Clearblue]

Thanks Elbert, I’m leaning toward going with Roaring top. So the 35c batteries are holding up okay?

[Elbee]

Thanks Elbert, I’m leaning toward going with Roaring Top. So the 35c batteries are holding up okay?

:Cool:

Clearblue, I have no point of comparison to other brands, though I am impressed with the quality vs price and as far as performance goes, I can only compare what I see with my batts versus what I read in this forum that others have experienced. So far, no puffiness, and I presume average heat issues on debrief with approximately 20 cycles. I do discharge/charge to storage voltage always. I am sold on the 6250mah versions. Will most likely continue with these for the foreseeable future. Hope this helps. Best, LB

[Twowingtj]

I checked the batts when I got home and voltages for 5 minutes were 1) 20.21v & 2) 21.32v. I am having no issues with 35c, Best, LB

LB, 3.37v to 3.55v per cell avg resting voltage is quite low. Surprized that LVC didn't kick in. Says a lot that they were not all hot and puffy though.

[Elbee]

LB, 3.37v to 3.55v per cell avg resting voltage is quite low. Surprized that LVC didn't kick in. Says a lot that they were not all hot and puffy though.

TWTJ, Seriously, thank you for the input as I am not yet very familiar with LiPo's characteristics. Batts were toasty, however. I presume thus far that 'ignorance is bliss'. Suffice it to say I won't try to go 5 minutes again without another major emergency on my hands. As far as the LV circuit goes, that was my biggest concern at the time. :Sweating:I am chocking it up to experience and fortunately 'no blood no foul'. Best to you, sir, LB

[Twowingtj]

Glad to help LB. Some flyers routinely push their lipos really hard. Those same flyers fuss about how crappy the batteries are because they have to replace them so often. My batteries usuall come down at 3.80v per cell. Some are only slightly warm depending on air flow. I'm strict about it with EDFs especially as you might need the extra cussion for a go around. Seems to work as I'm flying some lipos that are 5 years old and still going strong. I'm a little OCD about battery care though :Silly:LOL.

[Hardway]

Glad to help LB. Some flyers routinely push their lipos really hard. Those same flyers fuss about how crappy the batteries are because they have to replace them so often. My batteries usuall come down at 3.80v per cell. Some are only slightly warm depending on air flow. I'm strict about it with EDFs especially as you might need the extra cussion for a go around. Seems to work as I'm flying some lipos that are 5 years old and still going strong. I'm a little OCD about battery care though :Silly:LOL.

Roger that. About 3.73v is the zone... I have batteries from 2010 that still work great. I keep them in a closet in the bathroom.... Oh wait, that is where my top secret server resides..... My bad.... ;)

[Hardway]

Sorry, it was just too easy...………. LOL

[rifleman_btx]

Easy email removal if needed? Lol

[Hardway]

HA!!!! That is correct. Any unauthorized Rifleman data can be deleted for a bottle of Foam Tac.... LOL

[Elbee]

Easy email removal if needed? Lol

RMBTX, LOL Yes, 'like [just] wipe 'em with a cloth or something?' Best, LB

[Hardway]

RMBTX, LOL Yes, 'like [just] wipe 'em with a cloth or something?' Best, LB

OK, OK, lets all focus!!! I wipe a lot of things with cloths....:Scared: I am guilty of taking this down the dirty road of politics... SO!!!! Stand down. Disregard, and all the other happy horse crap... That is what happens when you have been up since 0327 today and have had a few beers instead of coffee!!! HA!! Carry on..... Now I get to use power tools.... Woo!!!!!!!!!!

[Hardway]

Pictures to come. Hopefully, with all the fingers intact!!! Love you guys... What a great group of fellow model aviators... :Cool:

[Elbee]

OK, OK, lets all focus!!! I wipe a lot of things with cloths....:Scared: Now I get to use power tools.... Woo!!!!!!!!!!

Copy that...

[Stilgar99]

Hello All. My A-10 is on its way to me and I have been trying to wade through all this great info...but im only up to page 238..lol!!
I have a few simple questions for all you experts.

- I have never painted foam before and I am aware some propellants will react with the foam. I saw some folks used Krylon paint (acrylic I assume), my question is...Do you coat the surface with something else first?
- Any suggestions to avoid the dreaded 'bucking bronco'? I plan on using the 'upgraded' landing gear cause I read they help some....

Thanks in advance!

Stilgar99

[Elbee]

Hello All. My A-10 is on its way to me and I have been trying to wade through all this great info...but im only up to page 238..lol!!
I have a few simple questions for all you experts.- I have never painted foam before and I am aware some propellants will react with the foam. I saw some folks used Krylon paint (acrylic I assume), my question is...Do you coat the surface with something else first?Thanks in advance!Stilgar99

Stilgar99, Welcome to "The Squawk"! I understand going through the entire thread, though it is decent reading. As for your repaint, I stripped the entire model with acetone as it doesn't hurt the EPO foam, but will soften the 'plastic bits'. If you choose to strip the OEM paint, I think you'll want to come back with a base coat to protect and seal the surface and give it back some depth. I used Minwax Polycrylic clear with a foam-brush 2 coat application and added a third to areas that were still 'gatored' looking. There is any number of ways to accomplish this, that is simply how I did it. Many guys have simply put down a couple of coats Krylon primer over the OEM paint. We're not worried about 'fuel-proofing' so buy whatever product(s) you're comfortable with using. Uncertain what paint scheme you've chosen, but any model acrylics or enamels will work great. I had Home Depot (HD) color match FS numbers and airbrushed and hand-painted using thinned semi-gloss Behr Marquee outdoor latex (sample sized jars). I finished the model with several light coats of Krylon clear flat rattle can after applying all the markings. Hope this helps somewhat and simply ask Q's here and I promise you'll get an answer and of course differing techniques. Post pics when you are able. Best, LB

[Stilgar99]

Thanks Elbee!
I plan on trying the 'arctic' scheme....using the original grey as one of the colors. Sounds like I should 'seal' it first with a clear sealer. Thanks for the input.

Stilgar99