Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Hardway]

Thanks Elbee!
I plan on trying the 'arctic' scheme....using the original grey as one of the colors. Sounds like I should 'seal' it first with a clear sealer. Thanks for the input.

Stilgar99

Should look great!!! Welcome!!! Glad you are here... :Cool:

[Elbee]

Thanks Elbee!
I plan on trying the 'arctic' scheme....using the original grey as one of the colors. Sounds like I should 'seal' it first with a clear sealer. Thanks for the input.Stilgar99

S99, Not certain, the OEM paint sticks quite well. I would think that it would depend on what type of paint you are using for the rest. Model Master Enamels would go on well. I do not have much experience with acrylics, but other Squawkers swear by those. Check out RCJetDude's Freewing F-4 in that forum here at the Squawk. I think I remember he documented his technique. Since one of your other colors is black, that should be fine. Just make certain you wipe down the OEM finish with alcohol and then a 'tack cloth' before you shoot paint color. I used gloss latex paints so the waterslide decals wouldn't frost and that also made it easier to apply the sticky markings with water to get those into position before I applied the matte finish. I would recommend that. Best, LB

[themudduck]

Hey Stilgar99, welcome and I hope you'll be able to read all the posts before the end of the year!
You will find a LOT of posts about the "bucking bronco" problem and about 6000 opinions about what to do about it. If everyone doesn't mind I'll venture forth and put out my opinion about it once again:

a) There are gear modifications you'll read about which may be helpful, but the real key is to not land on the nose gear. When you land, touch down on the mains first.
b) Let the model slow down with full flaps just before landing. If you touch down at a lower speed there will be less energy and less tendency to bounce.
c) If you move the batteries back on the A-10 you'll find it easier to raise the nose for touchdown. Practically all MRC jets are set up nose-heavy per the manual... a nose-heavy plane is stable and easy to fly but has a tendency to come down hard on the nose. For me, moving the C/G back just a bit was the real key to fixing the issue.

The trailing-link nose gear was helpful as well.

(Of course you should not let the nose come up too much... in a "high-alpha" landing approach you need to have some power on so that the model doesn't stop flying, this is something you'll need to get used to if you land that way.)


PS - purchase a spare nose-gear connecting pin (the part that connects the strut to the retract).

PPS - MRC has suggested that one doesn't need to strip off the original paint. The original paint is an excellent base to paint over. I am using color-matched latex house paint (Behr Marquee brand in the sample jars) and I've had excellent results on several MRC models, without any surface preparation. But that's just me.

[TiredIronGRB]

Hello All. My A-10 is on its way to me and I have been trying to wade through all this great info...but im only up to page 238..lol!!
I have a few simple questions for all you experts.

- I have never painted foam before and I am aware some propellants will react with the foam. I saw some folks used Krylon paint (acrylic I assume), my question is...Do you coat the surface with something else first?
- Any suggestions to avoid the dreaded 'bucking bronco'? I plan on using the 'upgraded' landing gear cause I read they help some....

Thanks in advance!

Stilgar99

Use the upgraded mains and keep the stock nose strut.

[themudduck]

I'm using the original mains and the upgraded nose strut!! Do'h!! LOLLOL

[xviper]

I'm using the original mains and the upgraded nose strut!! Do'h!! LOLLOL

Me, three. :Silly:

[Stilgar99]

Hey Stilgar99, welcome and I hope you'll be able to read all the posts before the end of the year!
You will find a LOT of posts about the "bucking bronco" problem and about 6000 opinions about what to do about it. If everyone doesn't mind I'll venture forth and put out my opinion about it once again:

a) There are gear modifications you'll read about which may be helpful, but the real key is to not land on the nose gear. When you land, touch down on the mains first.
b) Let the model slow down with full flaps just before landing. If you touch down at a lower speed there will be less energy and less tendency to bounce.
c) If you move the batteries back on the A-10 you'll find it easier to raise the nose for touchdown. Practically all MRC jets are set up nose-heavy per the manual... a nose-heavy plane is stable and easy to fly but has a tendency to come down hard on the nose. For me, moving the C/G back just a bit was the real key to fixing the issue.

The trailing-link nose gear was helpful as well.

(Of course you should not let the nose come up too much... in a "high-alpha" landing approach you need to have some power on so that the model doesn't stop flying, this is something you'll need to get used to if you land that way.)


PS - purchase a spare nose-gear connecting pin (the part that connects the strut to the retract).

PPS - MRC has suggested that one doesn't need to strip off the original paint. The original paint is an excellent base to paint over. I am using color-matched latex house paint (Behr Marquee brand in the sample jars) and I've had excellent results on several MRC models, without any surface preparation. But that's just me.

Thanks for the input mudduck! I just ordered a spare nose-gear connecting pin!

Stilgar99

[Stilgar99]

I have a feeling I will be asking alot of questions.. Here are todays;

- Im planning on the arctic paint scheme, but i read some concern about sun/heat...and something called 'gatoring'. Im in Texas, with major sun. Should I be worried about black?
- I have read some folks mount a mobius camera. I have a gopro....has anyone made a pylon for a gopro?

Thanks for all the replys!

Stilgar99

[Elbee]

Stilgar99, I am new to this phenomenon myself and I bought an inexpensive huge beach towel and cover the A-10 if it must sit in the sun. Someone here mentioned using an old fitted bottom bed sheet, makes sense. I also bought a 10'x10' canopy and set it up when we are going to out for the afternoon. The thing with dark colors is those might absorb more heat, those also hide the gatoring a bit more. It is a real thing, unfortunately. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah if you have anyway to cover your planes that's the safest bet. We just fly in the mornings here in Bastrop Texas, and this is what happens here even around 9am.

[themudduck]

These planes can handle the heat OK pretty well as long as the sun isn't shining directly on them - the foam will "puff up" and get bumpy when the sun heats the surface up - and its especially bad on dark surfaces and inside the canopy. So I agree, covering them up is a good idea.

I haven't seen anyone mount GoPros. I like the Mobius and RunCam because they are pretty small and not very expensive. But I'm always on the lookout for other alternatives!

[easyjack]

dirty dee, I love the cockpit detail. how can I get to you to order one Thanks easyjack

[weedsnager]

Anyone flying this bird with 5000 25C lipos ?

[Dirty Dee]

dirty dee, I love the cockpit detail. how can I get to you to order one Thanks easyjack

Hey easyjack, I'll contact you over PM with info.

[crxmanpat]

I've been asked if the decals for the ordnance are still available. They are! If you would like to order a set, see this post:

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/jets-and-edfs/75694-freewing-80mm-a-10-modifications?p=80688#post80688

[MikeT]

I've been asked if the decals for the ordnance are still available. They are! If you would like to order a set, see this post:

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...0688#post80688

They are a must have IMO.

Mike

[DHebb]

Thanks xviper for info: I went back and looked at everything> So what I was calling the ESC's was actually the BEC and this is plugged into the first port on the receiver AR7350 marked Batt., the next port on the receiver is marked Bind/program/. The two wires marked throttle are plugged into the Control Board. The one wire coming out of the Control Board is marked throttle and is connected to the receiver where I have set up for receiver port marked number # 1. I turned the transmitter on first and still doing samething! another weird thing is I no response on the gear channel. I just started into this hobby last year so still not sure about some things!!

[rlcamden]

Thanks xviper for info: I went back and looked at everything> So what I was calling the ESC's was actually the BEC and this is plugged into the first port on the receiver AR7350 marked Batt., the next port on the receiver is marked Bind/program/. The two wires marked throttle are plugged into the Control Board. The one wire coming out of the Control Board is marked throttle and is connected to the receiver where I have set up for receiver port marked number # 1. I turned the transmitter on first and still doing samething! another weird thing is I no response on the gear channel. I just started into this hobby last year so still not sure about some things!!

DHebb,

I had the same problem while trying to install my AR7350. Never could figure it out. The ESCs would just "beep" and never engage. Even after installing the latest firmware update, still same thing. I finally just went back to the AR6600T for the telemetry aspect and installed an Eagle A3-L gyro just for added protection for when I fly on windy days. Doesn't really need it though. If you or someone do figure this out, would like to hear what the solution was. Am planning on putting the AR7350 in my future F-14, but kind of worried about if the same issue will arise with that setup. May just have a $140 receiver to display in my man cave...lol.

[xviper]

I turned the transmitter on first and still doing samething! another weird thing is I no response on the gear channel.

On most RXs, ch-1 should always default to throttle and ch-5 defaults to gear. However, Not being familiar with the AR7350, you may have to go in and activate them. Also, make sure that on your TX, you didn't INH any channels. By default, they should all be working. For testing purposes, plug in a servo that you may have laying around into the gear channel on the RX and flip the switch. If it moves, then something is wrong with the gear wiring. If not, something could still be deactivated on the RX. You can try the same thing for the throttle. Just plug in a servo, move the stick and see if the servo works. Did we talk about whether or not you've got the throttle trim on the TX all the way down? It isn't reversed, is it?

[rifleman_btx]

Unless its futaba or frsky then throttle is ch3