Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Jefferybray]

Sorry for the duplicate picture.

[Pilot-GJC]

Finally finished my A-10 today and managed a quick photoshoot up the airfield.
Lots of hours gone into customising her in a slightly different Blacksnakes scheme (What If), 3d printed cockpit and pilot, thrust tubes and next for some scale ordinance, decals are either home made or hand painted along. Can't wait for some nicer weather to get her maidened

[Elbee]

Finally finished my A-10 today...

PG, Stunning Hawg, Sir. Great work, she's a beauty and your pilot figure is top-notch, as well. Best, LB

[ATCDave]

Finally finished my A-10 today and managed a quick photoshoot up the airfield.
Lots of hours gone into customising her in a slightly different Blacksnakes scheme (What If), 3d printed cockpit and pilot, thrust tubes and next for some scale ordinance, decals are either home made or hand painted along. Can't wait for some nicer weather to get her maidened

GJC,

Fantastic work man, well done! I wimped out doing a Commemorative Blacksnake scheme on my A-10, being worried about heat gatoring of the foam. Your Hog makes me want to do another one in Black. Nice!

-Dave

ps: You a Caravan or Kodiak pilot? (Just a guess based on your avatar pic)

[Geronimo65]

Hallo zusammmen,

ich hbe mir diesen Winter die A-10 gekauft und mache sie gerade flugfertig. Nun lese ich in der Anleitung, dass das Höhenruder nicht genau waagerecht steht, sondern etwas positiv angestellt sein muss. Die Anleitung schreibt aber nur "a little bit up". Das ist mir aber nicht konkret genug. Die Abbildung in der Anleitung ist leider nicht sehr aussagekräftig. Hat jemand einen Tipp damit ich sofort eine brauchbare Einstellung habe.

Ich vermute dass dieses Thema hier bestimmt schon angesporchen wurdem aber bitte verzeiht mir wenn ich nicht drei Tage lang 550 Beiträge durch lese.

Danke für eure Hilfe

************************************
Hi there,

I bought the A-10 this winter and am getting it ready to fly. Now I read in the instructions that the elevator is not exactly horizontal, but has to be a little bit positive. But the instructions only say "a little bit up". That is not specific enough for me. Unfortunately, the illustration in the instructions is not very informative. Does anyone have a tip so that I immediately have a usable setting?

I assume that this topic has already been discussed here, but please forgive me if I don't spend three days reading through 550 posts.

Thanks for your help

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[Radar-Guy]

Hallo zusammmen,

ich hbe mir diesen Winter die A-10 gekauft und mache sie gerade flugfertig. Nun lese ich in der Anleitung, dass das Höhenruder nicht genau waagerecht steht, sondern etwas positiv angestellt sein muss. Die Anleitung schreibt aber nur "a little bit up". Das ist mir aber nicht konkret genug. Die Abbildung in der Anleitung ist leider nicht sehr aussagekräftig. Hat jemand einen Tipp damit ich sofort eine brauchbare Einstellung habe.

Hallo,

das Foto zeigt es doch recht gut. Die Oberkante der Endleiste soll auf Höhe der Unterkante der Heck-LED bzw. des „Sensors“ stehen. Keine Angst, das Modell ist recht gutmütig. Du wirst da keine böse Überraschung erleben. Beim Start etwas Höhenruder geben, so hebt sie von allein zuerst mit dem Hauptfahrwerk ab und hüpft dann auf das Bugrad.

Viel Erfolg!

[Geronimo65]

Danke für den Hinweis. Die Abbildung hat mich zunächst irritiert. aber wenn man sie perpektivisch betrachtet und man versteht, dass das über das Rumpfende hinausstehende Ruder das rechte Höhenruder sein soll, dann wird es klar. Danke!

[Wild Man]

After seeing the B-2 with the drag brakes. I have since wondered if it would be possible for Free Wing to develop an update to the A-10, to add the drag brake setup with the ailerons would be a great addition to this Fighter

[Geronimo65]

does the A-10 have that in the original as well? If not I think this maeks no sence. however, I believe that retrofitting is too complex and too expensive

[xviper]

does the A-10 have that in the original as well? If not I think this maeks no sence. however, I believe that retrofitting is too complex and too expensive

Do you mean the "real" A-10? I think it does have drag brakes near the wing tips. Airbrakes have been modded into the MiG29, so modding drag brakes on this model should be possible. "Complexity" and "expensive" would be for each individual to decide.
Watch from about 5:13 ...........................

[Daryl]

split aileron mod…
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...3#post40430077

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hugh Wiedman Hello Hugh,

It's been 5 years since I mid aired my Hog with TI's (George Baker) Corsair down at fall Triple Tree (the year before it became Fall Nall)
I just recently replaced it with a gently used one for less than half the cost of new. I also got a BNIP set of the oleo mains and an AR8010T still in the fuse for that frugal sale price.

Anyways, the reason I write is because my old manual with all my setup notes is long lost. After watching your video, I knew that I could get some solid info from you.

Where is your CG set? What IS the hoopla you are referring to about the CG?
If I remember correctly, there was a 4mm up ELE trim setup to compensate for the inability to get the book CG appropriate due to the limited aft movement of batteries

Since you are using 6200 SMC's, I'm thinking I should not have any issue getting the 5300 SMC's I have to balance.
Anxiously await your input

Not home so this is from memory. CG at least 10-15mm behind manual, seem to remember 78mm manual, I'm at 93-95mm. Helps keep nose up on landing to avoid bucking bronco landing. 5-8 minutes on the 6200"s, so 5300's probably minimum 4 minutes. The twin exhaust wash is directly over the elevators so at 90mm or better, it requires less up elevator trim, about nuetral, so it should fly level with very little thrust or full thrust, if you catch my drift. Nose heavy requires more up trim, which gives exaggerated pitch at different throttle settings.

I removed the circuit board and stuck it on the port fuselage wall so I could stick the aft battery way back, then extended the step on the front battery tray so the the front battery goes well back. Can stack them, but I didn't have to to get balance, and I have a heavy cockpit with the Dirty Dee cockpit and full body JHH pilot.

Definitely one of my favorite and easiest EDF's to fly. I also installed the Mig 29 inrunners and swapped out the stock outrunners, but that's not critical if you fly scale, but does help grass take offs.

[OV10]

LOL....... You're responding to a post that is 8 months old and you actually gave a great response back then only about 3 hours after I inquired.
OH Hugh, a big ROFLMFAO

[Hugh Wiedman]

Sorry OV10. I'm on the road travelling and picked it up on the phone, after which I realized it was from way back. Alzheimer's is setting in early, sorry.

[spcboarder]

Hello,
I have flown my used A-10 for over a Year right now and it is absolutely stunning. The right outer flap servo is currently starting to shake/tremble/shiver (sorry I am not an Englisch native speaker). On Motin RC EU 17 g replacement servo (https://www.motionrc.eu/products/fre...ad-md31172-400 ) is sold out. Which Servo would be a good substitute? It should fit and value for money shoud be good. I do not know if there is something equally good in the 15 EUR Range out there but I would well spend 25 EUR/USD for one servo as well. I am possibly thinking a corona servo from hobbyking, but do not know which size to take.
Thanks, Wilfried

PS: I have searched this 566 pages for keywords like replacement servo, which servo, hitec servo and so on, but could not find something. I think it must have been discussed, but I did not find it.

[xviper]

Hello,
I have flown my used A-10 for over a Year right now and it is absolutely stunning. The right outer flap servo is currently starting to shake/tremble/shiver (sorry I am not an Englisch native speaker). On Motin RC EU 17 g replacement servo (https://www.motionrc.eu/products/fre...ad-md31172-400 ) is sold out. Which Servo would be a good substitute? It should fit and value for money shoud be good. I do not know if there is something equally good in the 15 EUR Range out there but I would well spend 25 EUR/USD for one servo as well. I am possibly thinking a corona servo from hobbyking, but do not know which size to take.
Thanks, Wilfried

PS: I have searched this 566 pages for keywords like replacement servo, which servo, hitec servo and so on, but could not find something. I think it must have been discussed, but I did not find it.

You might want to get a couple and change both sides and keep the one good one as a spare.
Motion has that in stock in the USA. Perhaps you could pay a little extra to have a couple mailed to you. Or, you could get a couple of these from RC Castle:

https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8162

The lead is a bit short but I'm sure you could get a short extension.

If the above doesn't suit you, in that link you put up for the stock servo, you should have seen all the specs for it. From those specs, you should be able to get the same in any other brand. You mentioned HobbyKing. They also give specs for all their servos. However, if you are willing to go with HobbyKing, why not just go with the stock one from Motion.com or RC Castle?

[RAFALR30]

My vision of the cockpit
...but it's not over yet

[Elbee]

RAFALR30 Great original work, Sir. Impressive results using all OEM placement. Best, LB

[RAFALR30]

This is the end of the work - the cockpit is finished.
And it's all made of "waste" such as: resistors, plastic parts from Kinder toys, wires of various diameters, the tip of a green brush, parts from a pen, a cable ferrule, a part from Ursus tractor lighting, transparent film, a lollipop stick, material from an old phone case, electronic connectors...

[Elbee]

This is the end of the work - the cockpit is finished.

RF, Bravo Zulu, Sir. Very nicely done. Diggin' the HUD. Best, LB

[jetpltrich]

[QUOTEAfter seeing the B-2 with the drag brakes. I have since wondered if it would be possible for Free Wing to develop an update to the A-10, to add the drag brake setup with the ailerons would be a great addition to this Fighter][/QUOTE]

The B-2 incorporates what's known as a "Split Rudder" out at the wing tips. This system keeps that plane flying straight, and I would also suggest it provides drag to slow down the plane much like a speed brake does, however, don't hold me to that, I'm not a B-2 expert. If the B-2 didn't have this system it wouldn't go too awfully straight. Northrop's flying wing also had this system but I doubt it was computer controlled. I'm sure there are more well informed experts on this forum when speaking of the B-2 such as GG.



If we take a look at the A-6 the split devices at the wing tip are there to create drag on final to spool the engine up to a certain percentage N1 or maybe EPR should the aircraft bolter (go-around). Without that drag on final the engine would take time to spool up and go in the drink. The system is designed to close them when the throttle is advanced when they do bolter so they are not penalized for airspeed. The A-6 has dive brakes on the side of the fuselage aft of the wing. When I was in the Navy these dive brakes were bolted shut on some aircraft and never used. Over time the aircrafts mission profile changed from the original diving style bombing to low level ingress to a higher level bombing profile of dropping LGB's (Lazer Guided Bombs). Gone were the days of dive bombing. My son who's now in the Marine reserves flying the F-18 said his time over Iraq he dropped his JADMS from a higher altitude 18-20K and from a distance.



Dual use Spilt Aileron/Speed Brake. If you've ever seen the F-15 and A-10 on final they have the Brake deployed for drag, on the top of the fuselage in the case of the F-15, and the Split Ailerons in the case of the A-10. Again this it to have the engines spooled up on final just like the A-6 in case they may have to go-around. Since I'm not privy to the system and or limits/operation I can't give you much information.



In the 737 I fly we have Flight Spoilers (air brakes) and Ground Spoilers. Only a small number of flight spoilers deploy when you want to limit speed and or get down out of altitude without exceeding airspeed. It's affectionately known as the Colonel stick and they are pretty much useless in flight. Ground Spoilers are a different animal, they are designed to spoil the lift upon touchdown (main wheel spin up) and they work as advertised. Ground Spoilers and Flight Spoilers both deploy when touchdown occurs and one can feel the squat the plane takes when they do deploy. And for those who complain about hard landings? sometimes a hard landing is necessary such as in rain or snow... this is primarily done to dissipate energy. Landing hard can be a good thing at times.

My personal preference is to leave well enough alone. I do enough go-arounds with my little fleet of airplanes that stowing a brake is too much to do in a dynamic environment and not doing so could cost me valuable airspeed needed to climb out. Additionally in a dive I may forget to stow the brake on the pull up. That said I would like to have the ability to dissipate energy after touchdown to slow the aircraft and prevent long rollouts, would be useful for strips that have grass at the end to contend with.

Just my two cents.
Richard