Here's a pic of the elevator alignment Avanti127 posted on RCG...I double checked it with what Ryans video shows and it matches up.
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Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread
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Originally posted by dkalwishky View PostI've got some F-4 problems and questions.
I've been reading reports that more than a few people have had loose ESC's and partially disconnected ESC wires from the EDF unit. I pulled mine apart tonight to check it out and I have three problems.
First off I noticed that the EDF unit was loose, it only took a tiny amount of wiggling before I realized that I could pull it out without taking any screws out. The plywood blocks had minimal glue, I assume the should be glued to the foam. When I glue them in what would you use? Epoxy, Foam-Tac, something else?
My ESC wires were only partially connected, I really don't think I did this when I pulled the EDF free, I was being really careful but it is possible that I pulled them loose. When I reconnect them to the EDF I'm going to wrap them with electrical tape to make sure they don't work loose.
Lastly the ESC was not under the cross piece of wood, should it be? I'll assume it should be otherwise there is nothing holding it from moving.
I consider the EDF not being glued pretty significant, I'm glad I check this out,
If you click on my pictures a high res version will open up.
Dave
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Thought I would share my Phantom for you guys on here. I chose the St Louis ANG 30th anniversary scheme, "30 Years of Phabulous Phantoms". Paint is Testors Model Masters Gunship Grey and Navy Aggressor Grey (should have been medium grey, but it was not available) Weathering was accomplished with compressed chalk and charcoal slabs, then rubbed in the airflow direction with a coarse paper towel. Rivet detail was done using a bamboo skewer with the tip sanded round, and took about an hour and a half to do the entire top of the model ( I never bother with the bottom) Graphics are mostly from Callie. The sharks mouth is from the Freewing A-10, and a few of the nomenclature "No Step" honeycomb decals are from the Freewing F-15.Maiden will happen on Saturday, 3/24. This process took 13 hours to complete, then another 45 minutes to set all the control surfaces up.
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Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostLooks fabulous Michael. Excellent job!Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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VERY IMPRESSIVE !!!!!! Beautiful Job. Even though I do like the SEA Camo on this Jet, There's going to be quite a few where I fly, so out comes the Airbrush, and I' have.already warned "Callie" to warm up the printer.....LOL. In my best impression of "Billy Idol" : "It's a Nice Day for a Black Bunny...)
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JetManMichael Nice work man, really sweet.
I just did mine up stock but will be adding some weathering in the coming days. Best of luck with your Maiden. It should be a piece of cake, the jet flies so nicely, I'm sure you will have a great time. 3 minutes is about it if you are flying with 5000mAh packs. Depends on throttle usage of course.
I added a few more of mine flying from the other day.
Also the link to the video that we shot.
6 Photos
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Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostLooks fabulous Michael. Excellent job!
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What I've learned so far:- You don't have to glue the tailhook to the rear of the fuselage, just the parts of it that mate with the tailcone servo cover. It's very light, so the mating surfaces with the cover are plenty to hold it.That way, the servo cover can still be removed by just pulling the screws.
- The decals are all waterslides, and thick ones at that. They still look better IMO if you clear gloss the surfaces they are to be applied to, though.
- Before you clear coat the aircraft, remove the DF hatch before (or maybe right after clear coating it, before it dries). If you don't, it's the very devil to get it out.
- If you're going to put decals over the rudder servo as the included diagram shows, you probably want to get matching paint and paint it first (and if you use a matte paint, you'll want to clear gloss over that first, too). Also, you should test the servo to make sure it works properly. Otherwise, you'll be re-decaling...
- My ESC was properly mounted and secured, the motor wires were firmly connected. and fan mounting blocks were well glued. I only found out because others here posting that theirs were loose made me check it to be sure. I'm not so sure about the long term durability of the ESC mount crosspiece, thought, as it's thin ply that you need to not overtighten, as it looks like it will break.
- The entire wiring job is a bit rat's-nesty. The UBEC and it's wires are pulled out of this photo:
While you have the ESC and DF loose, just pull them completely out, disconnect all of the connectors coming from the rear to the battery compartment from the control board (mark the main ones first, they are identical), and pull them all back into DF compartment. I did not pull them out from under the ESC tray, just back through the hole into the DF compartment. Put two or three wire wraps on them, then route them all back through. If you combine this step with the routing of the tail wires (rudder, elevator and light) through to the front, you can guide them through the fan compartment with less trouble. I didn't do it that way, and just used the fishing wire to run them through the rat's nest, and it took me about 5 tries and 20 minutes to get them through. With all that done, their will be a clearer channel for airflow from the battery compartment. I wish I'd taken photos of all this, but sorry, I didn't. But here's what the battery compartment rear looks like afterwards:
- Speaking of that, that's one of the really neat design features of this plane. Since it is directly connected to the DF compartment, the airflow through the battery compartment is driven by the fan; the cracks around the nose gear doors should provide plenty of air for the battery, receiver, and anything else in there that needs it.
- Another neat feature is that the battery tray is mounted with screws, and easily removable. When you get it, there's a nice rat's nest underneath, that looks like this:
After cleaning up, it looks like this:
Look at all that space! Plenty for a sound board or speakers.- So now, I'm looking at the sound system installation. Looks like the exciters will fit in the back of the battery compartment, right over the CG. That's where I'm starting tonight.
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Hey guys, we released some 3D printed part sets for the Phantom II, head over to this thread and let us know what you think and what planes we should do if these turn out successful
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Got a few more sets added for you guys that want to customize this beautiful bird!
Below are our current offerings for this plane.Not sure what scale your model is? Check out our Scale Help page to find out. If your scale isn't listed, no worries! We are always happy to make up a smaller/larger scale or an in-between size. Contact Us for a price.
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