The supplied rudder linkage doesn't seem long enough to adjust rudder to the neutral position. The manual identified rudder linkages as 85mm long, so I know I'm using the right linkage. There is simply not enough threads left for me to adjust the ball link any further. Picture shows the current rudder position. It's not anywhere near center.
Flanker271, If those screws were flat bottom, you got the right ones. The end one will stick out due to thickness it is going in. Check your servo horns on rudders to see if centered, maybe a tiny bit of subtrim will centered it. Mine had one rudder horn facing forward a bit, which caused me to unscrew clevis more on that side.
Flanker271, If those screws were flat bottom, you got the right ones. The end one will stick out due to thickness it is going in. Check your servo horns on rudders to see if centered, maybe a tiny bit of subtrim will centered it. Mine had one rudder horn facing forward a bit, which caused me to unscrew clevis more on that side.
The horizontal stabilizer screws are indeed flat bottom, thanks for confirming that these are the correct ones.
The Rudder servos are centered and the horns are at 90 degrees when I encountered the short linkage issue. I ended up fixing the linkage issue by reinstalling the horns tilted slightly backward. It now measures approx. 110 degrees at neutral position instead of 90 degrees.
To add to Crxmanpat's post, I'll also remind everyone to double-check the orientation of the foam chines you're gluing onto the rear fuselage. They're not indexed, so there's the potential for you to glue them upside down. Refer to our model's photos to ensure you're gluing them on right-side up.
Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
The supplied rudder linkage doesn't seem long enough to adjust rudder to the neutral position. The manual identified rudder linkages as 85mm long, so I know I'm using the right linkage. There is simply not enough threads left for me to adjust the ball link any further. Picture shows the current rudder position. It's not anywhere near center.
Don't know where these linkages came from but they are not the correct ones. On the two Raptors I have the rudder linkages are the same as the elevators and they fit perfectly.
I purchased the F22 kit. Anyone can recommend any good EDF setup for equal: runtime/thrust/speed ? I found JPHobby 1390kv 8s setup for a reasonable price but not sure what to expect.
Don't know where these linkages came from but they are not the correct ones. On the two Raptors I have the rudder linkages are the same as the elevators and they fit perfectly.
They are 85mm. All the same for the elevator and the rudder. Mine fit just fine....
I purchased the F22 kit. Anyone can recommend any good EDF setup for equal: runtime/thrust/speed ? I found JPHobby 1390kv 8s setup for a reasonable price but not sure what to expect.
First of all welcome to HobbySquawk! I have a JP 8S fan I am using in an F-15. They are nice fans that run very smooth and sound good in the air. I also have the stock Freewing 1390 kV fan in my F-22. I would think they are quite comparable and my 8S F-22 flies good. Give it a shot.
I finished the lightening holes in the battery tray. Now I have access to the gain adjustment knobs on my gyro. To save a few more grams I removed the four magnets from the nose and glued it with Foam-Tac. This baby is ready to roll! Great work Freewing and MotionRc!
Starscream in the house ..needs a another coat of
polyurathane, lot of work , but lots of fun , nav lights
next. Also changed the nose wheel out to an extra one I had from my flex jet
big shout out to callie graphics for making this possible ...
5Photos
Last edited by yf22raptor; Dec 14, 2018, 12:26 AM.
Reason: Info
Can anyone compare the 6s VS 8s versions? I have a boatload of 6s 5000 mAh packs. But I also have four 4s 4400 mAh packs. So I could go either way. 6s would be simpler...
Can anyone compare the 6s VS 8s versions? I have a boatload of 6s 5000 mAh packs. But I also have four 4s 4400 mAh packs. So I could go either way. 6s would be simpler...
Hi Husafreak, welcome to Hobby Squawk! The 6s is lighter, cheaper, and simpler to operate overall. The 8s is faster, with more thrust, a different sound, and *potentially* longer flight times IF the pilot manages throttle usage in a certain way, but obviously at the cost of higher initial price, higher weight, and having to maintain two batteries instead of one. If you're looking for a "close in" acrobat that flies like what our 6s videos have shown thus far, the 6s is my recommendation. If you want a "big field" flyer that can do everything the 6s can but just across more airspace, and don't mind the costs associated with the 8s, then I'd say it would be the way to go.
Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Starscream in the house ..needs a another coat of
polyurathane, lot of work , but lots of fun , nav lights
next. Also changed the nose wheel out to an extra one I had from my flex jet
big shout out to callie graphics for making this possible ...
This looks really, really nice! I was afraid the black would be too stark a contrast but it actually looks great in my opinion. It's clearly "not of this world". Great job and great job to Callie, also!
Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
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