Originally posted by crxmanpat
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Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread
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Originally posted by JohnVH View PostPat
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Ok, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.
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Originally posted by RMatteson View PostOk, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.
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Need some "eyes on help". On last F22 flight the left side nose gear door departed the plane just as the plane rotated. Right side closed just fine so finished the flight a landed. Didn't hurt the door at all as they just snap in but the left side pushrod and clevis were no where to be found. Servo and horn along with right side linkage are fine. I probably have enough parts to build a new linkage but it would help I knew the proper length to start with. Thanks for any information.
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Originally posted by sailing1 View PostNeed some "eyes on help". On last F22 flight the left side nose gear door departed the plane just as the plane rotated. Right side closed just fine so finished the flight a landed. Didn't hurt the door at all as they just snap in but the left side pushrod and clevis were no where to be found. Servo and horn along with right side linkage are fine. I probably have enough parts to build a new linkage but it would help I knew the proper length to start with. Thanks for any information.
edit: they are the same. 51mm, clevis pin to hole in control horn.Freewing A10, F4, F22, Sebart Avanti S mini
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Originally posted by RMatteson View PostOk, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.My YouTube Videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrz...4Q-xrOOtP2C-8w
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Maidened today finally on 8s and used four of my eight packs. Wow she is so stable! Little slower than my Avanti 8s, but talk about a killer profile. This is such an easy plane to fly and land. Anyone do brakes yet? She likes to really roll out.
Thanks guys for the help and I love RC Geek’s centerburner, the flicker sells it nicely1 PhotoEventually Gravity Always Wins
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The performance of the 8S version is outstanding! I was concerned about low speed handling with the additional weight. It’s very stable at low speed. I may try toe-in with the rudders during takeoff, high angle of attack flight, and landing. I want to see what this bird will really do.
My YouTube videos https://youtu.be/XECWX0Q0Mzw
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Finished trimming around the cockpit with 0.010" thick Styrene. Also got the servo mounting sorted out and designed and printed a clevis to attach a pushrod to the canopy. I am using an elevator servo from the 90mm F-16 and ran my throws all the way up. I have more than 30mm of travel. I need to do some painting next and then just put it all together.
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Good question Pat. Once I have it together and functioning I will be able to determine if anything more is needed. My gut feel is that it will be fine without any locking mechanism because the arm where the servo push-rod secures is a good 3+ inches from the pivot point of the canopy and it is quite strong. If I bottom out or slightly over rotate the push-rod on the servo opposite the arm it will also act as a lock. I hope to find out tonight.
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