Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread
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I'm wondering if there's something funky with my particular brand of RX that is causing voltage fluctuations in the box, that is causing the rudder/steering issue (works with gear up, not with gear down).PatComment
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Ok, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.Comment
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Same thing in my video above, Motion is going to send me a new one when they come in stock.Ok, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.Comment
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Need some "eyes on help". On last F22 flight the left side nose gear door departed the plane just as the plane rotated. Right side closed just fine so finished the flight a landed. Didn't hurt the door at all as they just snap in but the left side pushrod and clevis were no where to be found. Servo and horn along with right side linkage are fine. I probably have enough parts to build a new linkage but it would help I knew the proper length to start with. Thanks for any information.Comment
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I have mine on the bench. The linkages appear to be the same. I feel sure if you make another to match what you have left, it will work.Need some "eyes on help". On last F22 flight the left side nose gear door departed the plane just as the plane rotated. Right side closed just fine so finished the flight a landed. Didn't hurt the door at all as they just snap in but the left side pushrod and clevis were no where to be found. Servo and horn along with right side linkage are fine. I probably have enough parts to build a new linkage but it would help I knew the proper length to start with. Thanks for any information.
edit: they are the same. 51mm, clevis pin to hole in control horn.Freewing A10, F4, F22, Sebart Avanti S miniComment
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Really loving this plane. I took the Raptor for a spin today. Here are the F22 flights:
Luis
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Completed the transplant of the JF90 8S system from the F-4 to the F-22. Required a little carving of the fan hatch as the JF90 has a lip the protrudes out from the fan unit.
Also replaced the nose wheel with a Freewing 90mm F-16 main wheel. Next up, panel lines.2 PhotosPatComment
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The steering and rudder actually work through the box like they are supposed to on my L-39 but on the Raptor I have the same issues.(and so does Pat) Rudder servos work fine with gear up but when the gear is down they stop working and the nose steering doesn't work either.I did the same. Rudders on a Y and steering to Aux 2. And some (most?) of the boards seem to be working fine. I guess it's one of those items where it's just a crap shoot of whether you get a good one or a bad one.Ok, I fixed my rudder problem in my Raptor by unplugging the rudder servos, putting them on a Y harness and plugging direct to rx. But my L-39 is set up by the book and works fine gear up or gear down. Both plans have the same blue box, I'm using the same rx and both have the nose wheel steering on aux2. So what's the deal? The only difference is Raptor has 2 rudder servos going into blue box per stock setup. I got it working for me, but you would think some one in the service dept. would of found out some thing by now.My YouTube Videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrz...4Q-xrOOtP2C-8wComment
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Maidened today finally on 8s and used four of my eight packs. Wow she is so stable! Little slower than my Avanti 8s, but talk about a killer profile. This is such an easy plane to fly and land. Anyone do brakes yet? She likes to really roll out.
Thanks guys for the help and I love RC Geek’s centerburner, the flicker sells it nicely1 PhotoEventually Gravity Always WinsComment
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The performance of the 8S version is outstanding! I was concerned about low speed handling with the additional weight. It’s very stable at low speed. I may try toe-in with the rudders during takeoff, high angle of attack flight, and landing. I want to see what this bird will really do.
My YouTube videos https://youtu.be/XECWX0Q0Mzw
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Finished trimming around the cockpit with 0.010" thick Styrene. Also got the servo mounting sorted out and designed and printed a clevis to attach a pushrod to the canopy. I am using an elevator servo from the 90mm F-16 and ran my throws all the way up. I have more than 30mm of travel. I need to do some painting next and then just put it all together.
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Good question Pat. Once I have it together and functioning I will be able to determine if anything more is needed. My gut feel is that it will be fine without any locking mechanism because the arm where the servo push-rod secures is a good 3+ inches from the pivot point of the canopy and it is quite strong. If I bottom out or slightly over rotate the push-rod on the servo opposite the arm it will also act as a lock. I hope to find out tonight.Comment
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Once I'm done with the panel lines I'm going to hit it with a coat of Testors Dullcote to seal in the charcoal on the panel lines, and protect the decals as well. It will also knock down the "shine" on the decals for a more scale look.PatComment








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