Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[thisguy65]

It's in the manual, manual is correct.

[Aros]

I have found exploring aft of the recommended that this model is very CG sensitive. It likes the recommended which to some may feel too nose heavy. I am also finding she's very sensitive in roll as well. I keep meaning to reduce the throws. I find the manual recommended to be hilarious, at least for my style, lol.

I REALLY want to love this model! It LOOKS spectacular, but I just haven't found the confidence with her yet, as I have with the F-22, F-4, A-10, etc, etc...

[Carlbrainiac]

Oh ok fair enough. Just remember people mentioning it.
Another quick question. So on this I am using the rc geek centre burner. This is powered by the balance lead of the lipo pack. And obviously the model is powered by the ubec. So I'm guessing once I have put the centre burner on the Y lead with the throttle I need to remove the red wire from the end of the Y lead that's going into the reciever.

[fredmdbud]

Oh ok fair enough. Just remember people mentioning it.
Another quick question. So on this I am using the rc geek centre burner. This is powered by the balance lead of the lipo pack. And obviously the model is powered by the ubec. So I'm guessing once I have put the centre burner on the Y lead with the throttle I need to remove the red wire from the end of the Y lead that's going into the reciever.

The center burner seems to be powered directly by the battery, so the red wire should be inactive, so it won’t be in conflict/contention with the BEC at the RX. Best to message RC Geek, if it’s not mentioned in the documentation.

[crxmanpat]

Now to spend hours scrolling back through to find the elevator position setting as remember people making comments about the 7mm the instructions mention and where exactly to measure that 7mm from. Really need to sticky certain parts of this thread so they're easy to find. I've been on here since day one and page one so I know it is here just dont know where lol. Need to find where people were mentioning their preferred c of g as opposed to the manuals massively nose heavy position

Here you go.

[Carlbrainiac]

Thank you.

So in case you couldn't guess I have spent all day on the F18 today. Was just being really meticulous.

Couple of worrying issues that have already reared their ugly heads.

So I spoke to motion who mentioned to remove the slop from the elevator rod to fit some paper strips into the bearing retaining blocks. Did this and now no more play. I then went to set up the elevator throws and noticed one elevator servo stopped moving. I immediately thought oh dear have I put too much paper in and caused it to bind. So I unplugged the power. Disconnected the push rod and the elevator flopped down under it's own weight so no binding. Moves perfectly freely. So I then attempted to move the servo by hand. With the power off of course. It was very stiff. And crunchy. Feels like a tooth has gone on one of the gears already. I didnt even get passed the set up stage. The throws were perfectly reasonable too. Not over reaching for the servo or anything like that.

Also during set up I noticed that whilst all my push rods were present. Two of then were too short. I checked and double checked and also referred to the chinese section as I know people said those lengths are correct. But no matter what I do of where I put these remaining two push rods they are too short.

Next issue was whilst cycling the landing gear to test it one of the mains didnt want to come down. Wasnt making a sound. And occasionally the other main didnt come down either. The nose leg came down everytime but the light didnt always come on and when it did it appears the action of the light turning on and off made the aileron servos twitch.

Before the elevator servo stopped working I also noticed that moving the stick slowly on the transmitter one servo was definitely slower to the end of the travel than the other. Whilst I measured accurately and both had the exact same travel and centre point. One was slower to reach each end of the travel. And sure enough that was the one that stopped moving.

I have put in a ticket with motion. Will see what they say.

[Carlbrainiac]

I really dont have very confidence in these tail servos at all.
What would you guys suggest. The freewing full metal gear ones as used in the F22.
or the hitec 5085MG / D85MG. Believe the D85MG is the new version of the 5085MG. I understand these are a direct drop in replacement but then I'll also have to get a hitec programmer to make one of the servos reversed.

Thoughts..?

[Carlbrainiac]

Just took a chance and placed an order for the full metal gear freewing servos and another push rod set. Couldn't wait for a response to my ticket. Already waited 3 months for this bird. As for the retract that's more than I wanted to spend and should not be needing to spend all this money ordering new bits for a model that literally just came out of its box. Hopefully they'll see the order and my ticket and refund me and help out with the retract. I'm hoping the reason the retract made the aileron twitch is because one retract had stopped working. Maybe a short or something. Hoping it's not blue box issue. I'm running Futaba R617FS reciever and Futaba 14SG transmitter.

By the way if anyone else is flying this model on the 14sg how have you got your flaps operating? I like mine on a 3 position switch. But second positions giving almost full flap. Cant reduced it no matter what I do. Then the third position on the switch is just a little more movement. On any other model including my Avanti the flaps have just worked perfectly on the 3 position switch straight away. Any help greatly appreciated.

[janmb]

Oh ok fair enough. Not had reversed servos before. To me being old school white, red black was futaba and brown, red, yellow was JR. Hmm maybe I've been in this hobby too long lol.

That indeed used to be the case

[janmb]

I have found exploring aft of the recommended that this model is very CG sensitive. It likes the recommended which to some may feel too nose heavy. I am also finding she's very sensitive in roll as well. I keep meaning to reduce the throws. I find the manual recommended to be hilarious, at least for my style, lol.

I REALLY want to love this model! It LOOKS spectacular, but I just haven't found the confidence with her yet, as I have with the F-22, F-4, A-10, etc, etc...

If you are flying with already twitchy rates, that is the main explanation of why you feel she being cg sensitive. This all ties together.

Dial down your rates, and I'm sure a balanced cg (as in well behind manual) will feel just fine.

[crxmanpat]

I really dont have very confidence in these tail servos at all.
What would you guys suggest. The freewing full metal gear ones as used in the F22.
or the hitec 5085MG / D85MG. Believe the D85MG is the new version of the 5085MG. I understand these are a direct drop in replacement but then I'll also have to get a hitec programmer to make one of the servos reversed.

Thoughts..?

I see you already ordered the full metal gear servos. This is what I'm using in my second one. Only 3 flights so far, but no issues.

[Aros]

I am already well below recommended. I have a hard time believing my throws are still that "twitchy" that below recommended...The other control surfaces are fine...I'll keep pluggin' away.

[janmb]

By the way if anyone else is flying this model on the 14sg how have you got your flaps operating? I like mine on a 3 position switch. But second positions giving almost full flap. Cant reduced it no matter what I do. Then the third position on the switch is just a little more movement. On any other model including my Avanti the flaps have just worked perfectly on the 3 position switch straight away. Any help greatly appreciated.

Instead of letting the switch drive the channel directly, use a mix with a three point curve.

I guess a lot can be done with messing with the end points/travel, as well as subtrim on the flap channel too, but I prefer mixing

[janmb]

I am already well below recommended. I have a hard time believing my throws are still that "twitchy" that below recommended...The other control surfaces are fine...I'll keep pluggin' away.

Now imagine what rates my ailerons will need, using both ailerons and tailerons lol.

[Aros]

Ha!

[thisguy65]

Regarding cg it’s amazing I’ve seen guys use 70-100mm.

Pilot Ryan and my good friend push admirals 5000 almost to the bulk head.

Mine pictured below.

[Carlbrainiac]

Another question. Why does the manual instruct that the neutral position for the flaps is part way down? Just seems really odd that the manual says a bit of down flaps with a bit of up elevator for straight and le el flight...

[Carlbrainiac]

Instead of letting the switch drive the channel directly, use a mix with a three point curve.

I guess a lot can be done with messing with the end points/travel, as well as subtrim on the flap channel too, but I prefer mixing

Interesting. Might have to give this a go. Thanks.

[fredmdbud]

Another question. Why does the manual instruct that the neutral position for the flaps is part way down? Just seems really odd that the manual says a bit of down flaps with a bit of up elevator for straight and le el flight...

Most likely that is the final trimmed position determined during testing at the recommended CG with flaps up.

[Carlbrainiac]

Sorry yet another question. I brought the F16 ordinance pack including mounting rails presuming that I would be able to click the rails into place under the F18 wing. Clearly this is not the case. Only been able to fit the wing tip side winders. Guess i need 3D printed rails to fit but what exact one?