Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[GliderGuy]

Hi both, I’ll definitely get the ferrite RF chokes, thanks. Last time I looked they were out of stock but I shall persist! 😊

Running x2 6S 6000 packs and had the same experience as Gringoteurto above.

EDIT: my packs are NOT hot on landing curiously.

Andy

There are several offerings on Amazon for the RF chokes. Search Amazon for clip-on ferrite chokes. Get a variety pack...you'll be glad you did (small, medium and large).

It was back in 2018 when I was flying the A-10. Was using the Venom Fly 30C 5000 mAh batteries then.

Flight times are so "individual to flying style" that it's hard to compare. But, my A-10 had the outrunner EDFs. As mentioned by Hugh above, a 5 min flight was typical for the mixed throttle flying (50% mostly then to the occasional 100% aerobatic push). As I recall, the batteries would get pretty warm during a flight. I did not have a battery meter back then, so I cannot comment on post-flight battery voltages. However, inrunner EDFs are typically more efficient, so 3 min "seems" short for inrunners. See below...

I get 4 min on the MiG-29 running 75% mostly to 100% for aerobatic pushes for 2.5 min and 50% for another 1.5 min and land with about 3.7 volts and about 3800 mAh consumed by the 80 mm inrunners of the MiG. Could easily go longer if I flew more conservative, but (1) I like to leave about 30% to 40% in reserve....the LiPos last longer and (2) take less time to charge if I use less out of them per flight. Note: The MiG is using the Admiral Pro 6000 50C batteries. So, not a true apples-to-apples comparison for Gringotuerto.

As another point of comparison for the 6000 mAh, the F-4, 90mm outrunner, gets me 3.5 min total with 2 min of 75% mostly to 100% for aerobatic pushes and 1.5min with 50% throttle with about 3.7 volts and about 3900 mAh to 4000 mAh consumed.

Just a thought...have your verified your timing settings for the ESCs? Are you timed more aggressively?

-GG

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hi both, I’ll definitely get the ferrite RF chokes, thanks. Last time I looked they were out of stock but I shall persist! 😊

Running x2 6S 6000 packs and had the same experience as Gringoteurto above.

EDIT: my packs are NOT hot on landing curiously.

Andy

That is very strange, mine are the stock outrunners and 5 minutes of 75% throttle and tons of acrobatic moves including knife edge flight, it comes down with 30% left on each RT 6250 pack. Could probably go another 30 seconds but always like to save some in the tank for a go around or two. I'm not one to ease it around and conserve battery cause I believe if you got more throttle, use it when you want to and I get bored just cruising level in a oval circuit. And as per GliderGuy I've put those RF chokes in all my EDF's, better safe than sorry. Could it be that you're flying a little more nose heavy? At 92-95mm, it definitely will float and glide easily, especially with full flaps at landing. I've seen others post here where they say they need to keep on the throttle to bring it in and land nose up, but honestly this is one of the few EDF's I have that on landing approach after base leg turn, I can drop it to about 10-15% throttle, it glides in nice and slow and when I'm just a few feet off the ground I have to cut the throttle and raise the nose even higher for a nice, slow, main first touch down. Glides very easily in the air after coming out of a cuban 8 or split S and can cut the throttle to 25% on the down slope and wait quite a bit before having to get back to 50-60% throttle. And it definitely is not pitchy and tail heavy. I am flying with an AR637T with gyro gains in the 60% range, so that may help as well.

[Aros]

I would like to learn more about these chokes. Sounds like a great topic for a new Knowledge Blog article.

[GliderGuy]

I would like to learn more about these chokes. Sounds like a great topic for a new Knowledge Blog article.

The topic of the RF chokes has been discussed a lot in the various forums (F-4, AL37, MiG-29, A-10 threads). Just enter "ferrite" or "RF choke" or "choke" in the search window and begin reading what has been posted to date.

Thanks for your time....could save yourself and others the loss of a plane. The main thing is...they are cheap, easy to install, light in weight....and a possible solution to prevent crashes of high current EDFs. So....why not use them? Can't hurt. AND...worth noting...some mfgs install them in their planes as they come from the factory. When I purchased a Futaba SR-10 servo reverser, it also had one installed on it.

-GG

[steven gubala]

Nice bird, you should check your connection's and you should be getting a good 5 to 6 hard flying minutes, ans using the chokes the best thing to use.

[Aros]

The topic of the RF chokes has been discussed a lot in the various forums (F-4, AL37, MiG-29, A-10 threads). Just enter "ferrite" or "RF choke" or "choke" in the search window and begin reading what has been posted to date.

Thanks for your time....could save yourself and others the loss of a plane. The main thing is...they are cheap, easy to install, light in weight....and a possible solution to prevent crashes of high current EDFs. So....why not use them? Can't hurt. AND...worth noting...some mfgs install them in their planes as they come from the factory. When I purchased a Futaba SR-10 servo reverser, it also had one installed on it.

Excellent I will look into that, thanks! I'm a visual guy, do you know of anyone with video on how/where to add these to our models?

[Miroslav Cerny]

The topic of the RF chokes has been discussed a lot in the various forums (F-4, AL37, MiG-29, A-10 threads). Just enter "ferrite" or "RF choke" or "choke" in the search window and begin reading what has been posted to date.

Thanks for your time....could save yourself and others the loss of a plane. The main thing is...they are cheap, easy to install, light in weight....and a possible solution to prevent crashes of high current EDFs. So....why not use them? Can't hurt. AND...worth noting...some mfgs install them in their planes as they come from the factory. When I purchased a Futaba SR-10 servo reverser, it also had one installed on it.

-GG

How to place RF chokes correctly?

[GliderGuy]

How to place RF chokes correctly?

See post 10834
Mar 28, 2021, 08:56 PM

And subsequent comments. Also, I suggest you enter "ferrite' or "choke" or "RF choke" in the search window and read all the various posts that come up. Keep the chokes as close to the ESC as possible. The end result is shown below. Clip it on...pretty simple.

More than one wire can pass through a single choke.



-GG

[ITVader]

Hey guys! I've got a couple of these awesome A-10's, one I'm flying now stock and the other I'm working on customizing. Anyway after reading all of these threads (and I mean all of them) it dawned on me that about 7 years ago I bought a BlitzRC A-10 that has been moving with me over the years but I never even started. So, long story short, there is a canopy retract mechanism in the kit that I'm going to modify to fit and operate the canopies on my Freewing A-10's. It can be found bananahobby.com. If the hyperlink doesn't work just go to banana and look at the A-10 and then spare parts. It will take a little craftiness but I can see how it's rigged on the Blitz A-10, even has springs to draw the canopy forward at closure. They are very close to the same size (in fact the blitz A-10 is a little smaller airframe but the cockpits are almost the same size.

BlitzRCWorks RC - Radio Controlled - RC (bananahobby.com)

So for those of you who would like to add an opening canopy I do think that this mechanism can go a long way to helping you kit bash your way into it! I'll post my progress but don't hold your breath, I work on mods at the same pace I work on paying my taxes (I pay em, but not fast!)!

[ColtPilot]

Hey guys! I've got a couple of these awesome A-10's, one I'm flying now stock and the other I'm working on customizing. Anyway after reading all of these threads (and I mean all of them) it dawned on me that about 7 years ago I bought a BlitzRC A-10 that has been moving with me over the years but I never even started. So, long story short, there is a canopy retract mechanism in the kit that I'm going to modify to fit and operate the canopies on my Freewing A-10's. It can be found bananahobby.com. If the hyperlink doesn't work just go to banana and look at the A-10 and then spare parts. It will take a little craftiness but I can see how it's rigged on the Blitz A-10, even has springs to draw the canopy forward at closure. They are very close to the same size (in fact the blitz A-10 is a little smaller airframe but the cockpits are almost the same size.

BlitzRCWorks RC - Radio Controlled - RC (bananahobby.com)

So for those of you who would like to add an opening canopy I do think that this mechanism can go a long way to helping you kit bash your way into it! I'll post my progress but don't hold your breath, I work on mods at the same pace I work on paying my taxes (I pay em, but not fast!)!

I still have 3 Blitz RC Works A-10's. I've hung them up and only fly the FW. 4years running. Built 3 FMS and 1 E-flight. Mine is loaded with other stuff and did think about adding the retract mechanism to the canopy. Enjoy the FW A-10.

[MikeT]

Hey guys! I've got a couple of these awesome A-10's, one I'm flying now stock and the other I'm working on customizing. Anyway after reading all of these threads (and I mean all of them) it dawned on me that about 7 years ago I bought a BlitzRC A-10 that has been moving with me over the years but I never even started. So, long story short, there is a canopy retract mechanism in the kit that I'm going to modify to fit and operate the canopies on my Freewing A-10's. It can be found bananahobby.com. If the hyperlink doesn't work just go to banana and look at the A-10 and then spare parts. It will take a little craftiness but I can see how it's rigged on the Blitz A-10, even has springs to draw the canopy forward at closure. They are very close to the same size (in fact the blitz A-10 is a little smaller airframe but the cockpits are almost the same size.

BlitzRCWorks RC - Radio Controlled - RC (bananahobby.com)

So for those of you who would like to add an opening canopy I do think that this mechanism can go a long way to helping you kit bash your way into it! I'll post my progress but don't hold your breath, I work on mods at the same pace I work on paying my taxes (I pay em, but not fast!)!

That's from the old LX A-10. I found it unreliable after time.
Mike

[xviper]

That's from the old LX A-10. I found it unreliable after time.
Mike

Yup, that was my first A-10. Looked real nice when Pete YouTubed it and it even looked nice just out of the box. However, it never flew right and the quality was pretty pitiful. After hundreds of dollars of renos and upgrades, it still never flew right. Not wanting to sell it or give it away just so someone else would have the misery I had with it, I took out all the re-usable stuff and cut the thing up into little pieces so it would fit into a garbage bag. Once it was gone, it felt sooooo good.
PS. That canopy opening system was such garbage and Mickey Mouse, I never used it. Thought about trying it years later on the FW A-10, but playing with it in my hand, I tossed it in the garbage, too.

[ColtPilot]

Yup, that was my first A-10. Looked real nice when Pete YouTubed it and it even looked nice just out of the box. However, it never flew right and the quality was pretty pitiful. After hundreds of dollars of renos and upgrades, it still never flew right. Not wanting to sell it or give it away just so someone else would have the misery I had with it, I took out all the re-usable stuff and cut the thing up into little pieces so it would fit into a garbage bag. Once it was gone, it felt sooooo good.
PS. That canopy opening system was such garbage and Mickey Mouse, I never used it. Thought about trying it years later on the FW A-10, but playing with it in my hand, I tossed it in the garbage, too.

Don't know about yours, but mine flew great. Changed out the landing gear to E-flights as the plastic gear always broke. Had a lot of flights on this bird and still have it.

https://youtu.be/CHI1QwpK4CY

[GliderGuy]

FYI - There was a discussion on the MiG-29 thread about battery management and an almost crash.

Here’s a slick little visual “helper”...

Tiny, too. 2cmx1cmx0.2cm

Link follows....ordered some!

-GG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6JM98R...V0PQ7GJVGJAB39

[xviper]

FYI - There was a discussion on the MiG-29 thread about battery management and an almost crash.

Here’s a slick little visual “helper”...

Tiny, too. 2cmx1cmx0.2cm

Link follows....ordered some!

-GG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6JM98R...V0PQ7GJVGJAB39

These are great if you only have a few batteries. They cost 20 bucks CAN + imports fees when they get here. With all the batteries I've got, I'd need 200 bucks worth. I'm just going to have to bare the burden of my own mistakes when it comes to making sure I put in a fresh battery every time I fly. Even with these, I can just see a day when I forget to flip the little tab and the end result will be the same.

[Gringotuerto]

These are great if you only have a few batteries. They cost 20 bucks CAN + imports fees when they get here. With all the batteries I've got, I'd need 200 bucks worth. I'm just going to have to bare the burden of my own mistakes when it comes to making sure I put in a fresh battery every time I fly. Even with these, I can just see a day when I forget to flip the little tab and the end result will be the same.

I saw a guy who used red/green clothespins, which is a cheaper but larger version of the same thing. I use the "a place for everything" method that many people seem to use (in other words, you mentally designate distinct places for charged/uncharged batteries, and stick to it). I think this works really well for the simple reason that you naturally have to take some action anyway...by that I mean, if you remove a battery from a plane, you can't simply skip the step of setting it down, because it is in your hand until you take the action of laying it down somewhere.

[xviper]

I saw a guy who used red/green clothespins, which is a cheaper but larger version of the same thing. I use the "a place for everything" method that many people seem to use (in other words, you mentally designate distinct places for charged/uncharged batteries, and stick to it). I think this works really well for the simple reason that you naturally have to take some action anyway...by that I mean, if you remove a battery from a plane, you can't simply skip the step of setting it down, because it is in your hand until you take the action of laying it down somewhere.

I do the same thing or at least I try to. Fresh batteries in the tool box. Used batteries on the ground or floor of the car. Of course, sometimes I'll outsmart myself and put a used one down not on the ground (and not in the tool box) and in my hurry, I grab the used one. That's happened once in ten years. With any method, we always find a way to outsmart ourselves - that's the MORON side of the brain that surfaces now and then.

[DarthSyd]

Hi Guys,

On the topic of batteries, I've just bought the iconic A-10. I'm wondering are most of you running separate batteries for each ESC/motor (as it comes wired up for) or are you setting it up to connect batteries in parallel and effectively run one pack for both ESC/motors?

Cheers Darius.

[crxmanpat]

I think the vast majority are running one pack per motor. If I recall, a couple guys have done the parallel thing so that you won't have one battery crap out and end up flying on one motor. However, it does fly on one motor if one happens to give out.

[xviper]

Flex mine today after a long winter’s sleep. Using 2 batteries - one connected to the lead with the BEC, the second to the other lead. Works very well, don’t see any reason to fuss over joining the batteries together. It’s worked this way from day one.