Hey what are you folks finding to be the best tape to use for painting? I know there's been quite a lot of commentary on the paint peeling up easily...I am getting ready to pull the trigger and I would love to know what the best method folks have uncovered thus far when dealing with this fickle factory paint when it comes to using trim tape, etc...
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Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread
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Originally posted by Aros View PostHey what are you folks finding to be the best tape to use for painting? I know there's been quite a lot of commentary on the paint peeling up easily...I am getting ready to pull the trigger and I would love to know what the best method folks have uncovered thus far when dealing with this fickle factory paint when it comes to using trim tape, etc...
Have always found eletrical tape to be the most gentle adhesive you can get away with that still creates sharp lines. Even then I had lifting on parts of the AL37. You'll likely get recommendations for yellow frog tape which has been de-tacked a bit by pressing it on your shirt. IMO even that is way too an aggresive adhesive for the AL37's paint. Your mileage may vary with a later batch, just have a Plan B if you need to do some touch up work.
You could try applying a few coats of WBPU (minwax in your neck of the woods) and letting it cure before masking. It wont (cant) improve the adhesion of the factory paint to the foam, but the 'shell' it forms reduces the paints stretchyness and thus willingness to follow the tape as you peel it off.
Dont be too put off, it's all part of the fun and i'm sure your plane will come out looking as amazing as everyone elses. Any imperfections wont be noticeable from more than a few feet away :)
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The AL37's nose gear has proven to be pretty robust, so this is probably uneccesary, but I've always liked the added security of strut braces for planes which are configured appropriately (nose wheel retracts forward). Im a grass guy so even after a greaser the retract can be exposed to some decent bumps.
Figured I'd have a go at designing one. It's a two-part print, with the backplate designed to spread any loads it receives across a larger area, rather than it being concentrated into a thin strip of foam, which is a common problem for others I have printed. It also helps locate the brace so it doesnt interfere with the landing light. The two holes will allow access to the mounting screws for the retract.
About to do a test print, which usually shows up some design flaws that need rectifying. Once the design seems OK i'll publish it to thingiverse. If you see people selling them for profit, please remind them of the creative commons licence restrictions lol.1 Photo
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Originally posted by mshagg View Post
Ive painted a few different planes now - although the factory paint on the AL37 is particularly difficult to work with nothing really bonds great with EPO. The AL37's paint behaved similarly to base coats I've applied when the ambient temp was too high, causing the paint to dry too quickly, before it has a chance to properly bond with the foam. This presented as strips of rubbery paint that would 'tear' away with the masking, similar to my experience with the AL37.
Have always found eletrical tape to be the most gentle adhesive you can get away with that still creates sharp lines. Even then I had lifting on parts of the AL37. You'll likely get recommendations for yellow frog tape which has been de-tacked a bit by pressing it on your shirt. IMO even that is way too an aggresive adhesive for the AL37's paint. Your mileage may vary with a later batch, just have a Plan B if you need to do some touch up work.
You could try applying a few coats of WBPU (minwax in your neck of the woods) and letting it cure before masking. It wont (cant) improve the adhesion of the factory paint to the foam, but the 'shell' it forms reduces the paints stretchyness and thus willingness to follow the tape as you peel it off.
Dont be too put off, it's all part of the fun and i'm sure your plane will come out looking as amazing as everyone elses. Any imperfections wont be noticeable from more than a few feet away :)My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros View Post
Fantastic response full of great information. I salute you my friend and as an aside I am praying for all of you with these incredible wild fires.
The nose strut brace came out reasonably well. All that was needed from the initial design was a relief added to ensure clearance from the steering tiller. The files are up on thingiverse now: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4098588
Hoping for calm weather to get her out and about tomorrow AM. Should have the field to myself, which is nice, because she usually draws a lot of attention (pressure)!2 Photos
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Originally posted by mshagg View Post
That's very kind of you, thanks. Bushfires are synonymous with summer time here, but these are unlike anything I've seen in my lifetime.
The nose strut brace came out reasonably well. All that was needed from the initial design was a relief added to ensure clearance from the steering tiller. The files are up on thingiverse now: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4098588
Hoping for calm weather to get her out and about tomorrow AM. Should have the field to myself, which is nice, because she usually draws a lot of attention (pressure)!
Cool, thanks. This will be my first real print job for our new 3D printer. This type of brace definitely helps on the Avanti, so should be great. I'm not sure why Freewing has not incorporated that brace into the stock Avanti.
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Originally posted by HaroldAnderson View Post
Cool, thanks. This will be my first real print job for our new 3D printer. This type of brace definitely helps on the Avanti, so should be great. I'm not sure why Freewing has not incorporated that brace into the stock Avanti.
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Originally posted by Aros View PostHey what are you folks finding to be the best tape to use for painting? I know there's been quite a lot of commentary on the paint peeling up easily...I am getting ready to pull the trigger and I would love to know what the best method folks have uncovered thus far when dealing with this fickle factory paint when it comes to using trim tape, etc...
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Reference Al-37 conversion to Kc-135:
Tell us something about the build. Did you duplicate the other 2 motors and nacelles? How did you mount the nacelles? Any info as I am now ready to build this plane. My son has been flying this plane for the past 20 years...... I'm fired up thanks for really good subject, and build......
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Originally posted by LowandSlow View PostI used 3M 2364 fine line 1/8" and then 1" or 2" green low tack masking tape. I stuck it to my shirt or jeans 4 or 5 times before applying and never had a problem with paint lifting. Don't leave the tape on any longer than you have to and pull it back onto itself slowly when removing it.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I think I will be removing the lower winglet on mine as well once I get it. I like that look better. Actually might customize mine to have that classic curved winglet...
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros View PostI think I will be removing the lower winglet on mine as well once I get it. I like that look better. Actually might customize mine to have that classic curved winglet...
If you were this side of the pond I'd print you out a set!1 Photo
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Nice! I might take you up on snagging the STL file at some point? See if I can find someone over here to print a set? Would greatly appreciate that!My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros View PostNice! I might take you up on snagging the STL file at some point? See if I can find someone over here to print a set? Would greatly appreciate that!
This is a replacement winglet for the Freewing AL37, which more closely resembles the 737-800 style winglet. The upload contains a single winglet - mirror the mesh on the appropriate axis to print a pair. Also print two of the clips, these glue into the recess on the winglet and allow them to attach as per the standard ones. Take note of the orientation in the attached photo. I recommend printing with the trailing edge on the print surface to avoid the use of supports. Use a raft or a brim as appropriate to achieve the necessary bed adhesion. Photo attached of how it appeared in my slicer. You cant print this with low infill and single outer walls to keep the weight down.
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