Hey guys, replacing an aileron servo on my Freewing A-10 and need to replace the tape covering up the servo wires, what are you guys using for tape that will stay on over time?
-
-
SI, Welcome to "The Squawk". I use colored electricians' tape. I have the multi-color 5 pack (red, green, yellow, white, blue) from your favorite home store. It is paintable. I used the white, but I also spray a matte clear over my models when I am finished, so that helps keep the tape in place. Best, LB
-
-
I just heard someone mention that paper backed medical tape is another good option, and easier to get paint to stick?Comment
-
I reuse the same tape so I don't have to repaint. A little of the snot glue provided in the kit (white tube) works great for reapplying.PatComment
-
Dear all,
I’d like to get a bit more robust on the energy input of my A10. On these kind of beasts I would usually go for a dual power supply. This is my first 6S plane and I just discover the problem is not as simple as I am used to. The A10 is running on a UBEC supplied with it. I was thinking buying another UBEC/SBEC to go on the other power line and then a dual power switch. Before doing so I wonder if any of you would have gone through such modifications and what would be your experience with this?
Cheers.
ManuComment
-
Going on 4 years on mine with no issues on original power system. It is robust and have a lot more extras on mine than most. I did go with all oleo struts. Use everything from 5000 packs to RT 6250's with plenty of get up and go on the stock 80mm set up. I'm at an eighth inch behind CG for a good flair. The weight is 13.5lbs. Hope this helps.Comment
-
Comment
-
If you run 2 bec or 2 batteries, they should be isolated with diodes to prevent conflict. You can build the module yourself or buy it all ready made. I like smooth flite which has built in telemetry and gives you both battery voltages with current. On my A-10 the max current at 5.2 volts is 8 amps. The diode isolator uses .3 volts to do its thing so I input 5.5 volts and get 5.2 out. This is not a regulator, just isolates 2 inputs. The regulation is done with the bec. 4stripes has another solution which uses a bec to charge a small pack as a backup power supply which works. He can explain it better than I canComment
-
1. I have flown this plane in stock configuration for years with no problems. I haven’t read this whole forum, but I have read a fair bit of A-10 chat, and don’t recall seeing any specific evidence of a deficient design on this one. Actually that is true of all my Freewing or Flightline planes – stock electronics, no issues that I know of.
2. I agree with above posts that directly shorting output of two regulators is not good (unless you are sure they were designed with that in mind). When you say “dual power switch”, did you have a particular product in mind?
Comment
-
Thank you for your answer and feedback Gringotuerto. It is important that I say there is no challenge from my side regarding the quality of this kit. I am truly amazed by how it is put together and how it flew out of the box: I already feel super comfortable with the plane whereas I have only flew it 4x which is a first on my side. My question is only in link with my habit of securing supply to receiver and servos on my big planes with dual power supply. I have no intention of directly shorting 2 UBEC and was rather thinking of using products like dual switch sourcing automatically from the highest voltage source. I.e. if one battery drops then the power supply is maintained through the 2nd one. E.g. JETI DSM ESC. Before doing so, I preferred to ask here what other pilots did and challenge my position. Owing to the great feedback I think it is pretty clear: box standard configuration... ^^ Which is by the way synonym of money saving... :pComment
-
OK I looked at the instruction manual for that Jeti product. I think it is designed for exactly what you are talking about, and should work fine if you put another BEC in there. Note that it has its own current limitations, (10A continuous, 20A burst), but since the BEC included with the A-10 says 8A (from MotionRC website), this should not be a huge problem. Of course any extra thing in the path will introduce some tiny losses, but I would estimate it is not an issue here. So if you want two BECs for redundancy, I think that is a fine method of doing it. And it seems to me plugging together products designed for this purpose is less risky than hacking something. I have dual power on some larger planes also.Comment
-
What scale is the A-10 80 mm?Comment
-
Thanks! 😁Comment
-
Okay guys so without going through every single thread of this page I would like to get some info since I just purchased the A10 and I'm waiting for it to arrive. Come on FedEx man where's my package? Lol This is the best looking A-10 aircraft I've found on the internet and I would like to know what are some of the first upgrades I need to make and what do I need to safeguard my plane as far as the electronics go. I have a spectrum nx8 and I purchased a AR8020T DSMX 8-Channel Telemetry Receiver and twoWhat cables connectors if any do I need to purchase to make everything work or is everything I have compatible with all the electronics that are currently in the aircraft now?22.2V 7000mAh 6S 30C Smart LiPo G2: IC5
SPMX76S3
to go with it!
thanks 😁
Comment
-
The best thing you can do while waiting is read all the posts....best time you will ever spend AND it may prevent you from crashing your A-10.
Sooo many important things are here. CG, nose gear brace, set-up info.
Search on “ferrite” or “RF choke” or “choke” and read/learn/buy/install these. I lost an A-10 twice and an F-4 due to not installing these. No issues after I began installing the chokes.
Failure to take the time to read these posts puts you at risk of taking a pile of foam home.
-GGComment
Comment